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Thread: golf - what are "good" clubs to keepy an eye out for?

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    Default golf - what are "good" clubs to keepy an eye out for?

    I literially took 10 years off golf but at one point going back into the early 2000's I was a 4.8 hdcp with a set of Ram Tour Grind X100 tipped, 975J (then later the Ignite 410) with Adila X-stiff and still have my old Cleveland 588s and a Bobby Grace putter

    over the years, I switched clubs but kinda regret as my last driver is a burner superfast 2.0 460 and I really dislike it - I can drop it deep but there is no shape and the flight is not "bore-ing" anymore

    I switched my irons to MP30s using S400 shafts (inbetween x100/s300) and still use the same wedges/putter (switch up with my old Cameron Studio Newport)

    I looked at my friend's bag and WTF everything has changed... adjustable driver, the new cobra speedback 1 length... like what? he doesn't even carry a 4 iron

    I'm sure I'm old school, but when I did try his iron, yeah... they are really easy to hit. You can't really tell if you "pured" anything, nor work it... but for me where I'm now a double digit player (thanks to playing 3 times a year) maybe... I should look at something "game improving"?

    My MP30s are still so buttery when struck right... these 460 driver suck and I have absolutely no feel with these "drum" type irons. BUT when I'm not playing good, at least I hit them a consistent distance

    That said... anyone here recommend maybe what are the Irons/Drivers/Woods that are specifcially awesome over the last decade?

    For me, from the old man list for legendary outstanding equipment... I tell you my favorite irons:
    MP33/MP27
    MP32
    Ben Hogan Apex plus
    Tommy Armour 845 EVO
    Ping Eye 2 (blue dot)

    none of these irons are anywhere near "new" nor new lofts, but Jesus could they flight a ball when struck well. Even the latest blade offering I feel have too thick of sole and low muscleback weighting, so the shots don't look any different than a cavity back. Exception being the Ping Eye 2 - however as far as cavity back irons go, the Becu offering feel very nice.... ping always made decent cast irons

    Drivers
    Callaway Big Bertha Ti - I had one with a X-stiff EI70 I hit just a little while ago. May not be long, but its 270 down the middle every every time.
    Nike Ignite 410 - I put two pieces of led tape on the tow side of the bottom and I can shape this thing and still go deep (+300)... but the face on this old driver is getting old.
    Ping G20 - the Ping G series I thought maybe the best modern 460 driver... but I hadn't hit many Titleist in the last few years. Deep, feels good, BUT can't shape easily without being deliberate.
    Titleist 983 and 975D - Pear Shape heads, timeless setup and do what I felt I wanted.

    Woods - I didn't carry many. I prefered more wedges, so I used a 4 wood and carried a 2-PW
    Titelist PT
    Callaway Warbirds old ones
    Sonartec
    Olimar Tri-metal

    thing is... like jumping on skates - the first round/game is never pretty. However I think I'm "ok" enough to score in the mid 80's with reasonable game improvement equipment... which would be "ok" to just hit a ball straight and long lol.

    Anything you guys would put out here as
    Last edited by r3ccOs; 09-13-2020 at 05:08 PM.

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    Are you going to enjoy your rounds more if your shots are more "boring"? I get the feeling that the feel of the club is more important to you, so maybe those less forgiving clubs will be more fun, even if it adds a couple stroke to your score?

    Can you still hang out in the golf town simulators during covid? If so, spend an hour or two there with a couple sets of irons and see how happy you are with the feel of the game improvement irons. Myself, I need that type of club, but for you, maybe it's just going to kill your joy?

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    The solution is to start making beer. Peak oil by 2030. Peak beer by never. Pivot!

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    Quote Originally Posted by ExtraSlow View Post
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    Are you going to enjoy your rounds more if your shots are more "boring"? I get the feeling that the feel of the club is more important to you, so maybe those less forgiving clubs will be more fun, even if it adds a couple stroke to your score?

    Can you still hang out in the golf town simulators during covid? If so, spend an hour or two there with a couple sets of irons and see how happy you are with the feel of the game improvement irons. Myself, I need that type of club, but for you, maybe it's just going to kill your joy?
    He was a ~5 index, and listed a bunch of really classic blades. He won't be buying game improvement irons anytime soon. It's really hard to go to a game improvement iron, when you've played with small blade lengths and thinner soles. Golf town is fine to check out the clubs and hit a few, but hitting off mats and using shit balls which have seen 100 swings isn't going to help. You'll get some relative data from the simulators there but don't trust the distances because they tend to be jacked up (adding wind/elevation) or inaccurate with spin rates. Definitely inaccurate with spin rates. Getting fitted at Modern Golf or at a regional fitting centre (Country Hills for Titleist, Blue Devil for Taylormade) is your best bet. They can swap a variety of iron shafts into any head, and have lots of options for driver shafts.

    @r3ccOs If you are truly looking to get back into the game, and want some nice sticks, this is what I recommend. The new Mizuno JPX 921 line just came out. I would buy the 921 Tours and get PW-4i. They have traditional lofts that you're used to and would match up with a 50/54/58 wedge setup. They will have the same buttery feel like a flushed MP32 has. They have a little more forgiveness than the MP-20s. New line of Taylormade irons look great, and you can get them in traditional lofts if you get the MB's or the 770s. For drivers and woods, I would go with Talyormade or Ping. Titleist drivers haven't good in ages. I'm not a fan of Callaway, but their driver head shape is nice. Depending on how much speed you have, you could do driver, 3W/5W and a driving iron (Taylormade SIM UDI) or 2 hybrid.

    I basically play this setup, but with an older version of the Mizuno and Taylormade driver and play to a similar index as you did.

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    TIL 100 strokes and a ball is no good, good think I lose 4-5 a game.

    Hahaha
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    If you think I have been trying to present myself as intellectually superior, then you truly are a dimwit.
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    fact.

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    Npham knows what’s up.

    I’d say, spend a bit of money (1-200) to get properly fitted, like at modern golf and not golf town, and they’ll get all the right clubs in your bag, and even recommend alternatives on the used market so you can scour Kijiji. This is, undoubtedly, the best way to do it.

    If you are too lazy/don’t have time to do this, just take nphams advice and build that bag. The risk is that something you get doesn’t work as well as you hope, you switch for something else, and so on (all at your expense) - this is what you hopefully avoid by just working one time with a skilled club fitter.

    But whatever you do, don’t get “fitted” at golf town. Actually, they aren’t really good for anything anymore except the odd online sale. Just steer clear of that place.

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    Maybe look for some Miuras or other Japanese forged irons, like Mizzys you love or some of the players cavity backs like Titleist AP2s. Get fit and make some plans to get your club head speed back up if you’re going to try for s400s or x100s again.

    I’ve got a nice set of WilsonStaff fg59s that are about the smallest club head you’ll find if you want the closest to a true blade in a modern club. You’d need to get them reshafted though, they are standard length r300s.

    You should still be able to get better players woods or hybrids but depending on the courses you want to play you may not need to carry anything longer than a 5 iron, especially if you’re only playing a few times a year still. Woods and hybrids are much harder to fall in love with so don’t go all out until you have an idea of what you’re looking for and what’s available.

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    I played Ping Eye 2 blue dots (had a steel set and a set of the BeCu) and felt they were as good as any modern iron I had ever tried. My friend had a set of the Ping Zing 2 and the ISI and felt the same way about them. A guy at work is a scratch golfer and plays a set of the ISI irons with modern woods/driver.

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    Been said here, but go get fit, either buy from the fitter (he should discount the fit), or pay for the fit and buy used forged irons and have them bent. What is it you like about blades specifically? The feel or the top line? Prepare to be triggered, but even at a 4.8, you’re not the target consumer of a blade. Most pro’s have migrated to some form of blended set. Have a look at the Mizuno MMC irons for the look of a blade at address and the feel. The best thing about Mizuno’s is they don’t upcharge for different shafts and grips. That alone saved me $44 a club when I bought mine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SkiBum5.0 View Post
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    Been said here, but go get fit, either buy from the fitter (he should discount the fit), or pay for the fit and buy used forged irons and have them bent. What is it you like about blades specifically? The feel or the top line? Prepare to be triggered, but even at a 4.8, you’re not the target consumer of a blade. Most pro’s have migrated to some form of blended set. Have a look at the Mizuno MMC irons for the look of a blade at address and the feel. The best thing about Mizuno’s is they don’t upcharge for different shafts and grips. That alone saved me $44 a club when I bought mine.
    In the day, we didn't really have much for club "fitment" other than impact tape, but then not so long ago I did try to measure spin rate and launch angle of my irons and they were on "point" for the traditional degree of loft.

    New clubs have such a low MOI that they can go with stronger loft yet still achieve the height expected of each iron. Like with most golfers, my best clubs, other than a driver, are 5iron in... and I've always had affinity with blades because those were what I used grown up playing golf in the 80's/90's. I had tried to switch to a set of Titleist DCI, and the 990s and the I3 blade and found that though I could play with them, they didn't feel nearly as nice on a flush shot and lacked the penetrating flight I preferred for in windy conditions.

    My pro had indicated that my clubhead speed was ideal with Rifle flighted 7.0s and or S400/X100 and as I'm 6.0 and arm length hang at 34.5 I can use standard lie/loft, if not a 1deg upright on long irons as I prefer to be closer with them and use a very strong (Azinger) type grip

    Also I prefer a D8 swing weight, and I prefer traditional chorded grips, I use lambkin and or tour velvets through the years which seems to get close to a D7/D8 with the MP30s I use.

    I agree though, 2-4 bladed irons are best reserved to those with a perfectly grooved swing.

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    You sound like you’d benefit from a fit with modern measurement tech and equipment options.

    Rifle flighted 7.0, s400, and x100 are all quite different shafts. Although they might all work for you, a proper fit will definitely show you which ones best.

    Also, if your index is anything under 10 just play what you like (re: blades vs cavities). I’m a ~7 and play 3-pw Miura baby blades. I could probably drop a stroke or two off my index if I played something more forgiving, but I just don’t want to. If I played more competitive golf I would definitely have something more forgiving, so that’s something else you should consider.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cjblair View Post
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    You sound like youíd benefit from a fit with modern measurement tech and equipment options.

    Rifle flighted 7.0, s400, and x100 are all quite different shafts. Although they might all work for you, a proper fit will definitely show you which ones best.

    Also, if your index is anything under 10 just play what you like (re: blades vs cavities). Iím a ~7 and play 3-pw Miura baby blades. I could probably drop a stroke or two off my index if I played something more forgiving, but I just donít want to. If I played more competitive golf I would definitely have something more forgiving, so thatís something else you should consider.
    for me, I think that the x100 and the flighted give me the more penetrating ball flight for low irons as the kick point tends to be higher... but otherwise I can swing any of those shafts as long as the swing weight is balanced and "spine aligned" (they come this way now don't they??)

    As far as drivers go - its all about the Shaft... I know mitts adila, UST, True temper all make amazing shafts and though distance wise I totally benefit off a low kick point driver - I prefer keeping the shot boring, especially with my metal woods. My Swing speed is typically 114 but I can get up to 121 comfortably BUT I know this... anytime I have a shaft that loads oddly due to not enough flex, I push the drive. My tempo is a bit quick but definitely need something with a very very stiff tip with a torque rating less than 4.6.

    Best recent driver I borrowed was a M2 with a diamana x-stiff. I didn't particularly like the driver at address, but the shaft made me feel comfortable to swing for the fences and it worked very well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by r3ccOs View Post
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    for me, I think that the x100 and the flighted give me the more penetrating ball flight for low irons as the kick point tends to be higher... but otherwise I can swing any of those shafts as long as the swing weight is balanced and "spine aligned" (they come this way now don't they??)

    As far as drivers go - its all about the Shaft... I know mitts adila, UST, True temper all make amazing shafts and though distance wise I totally benefit off a low kick point driver - I prefer keeping the shot boring, especially with my metal woods. My Swing speed is typically 114 but I can get up to 121 comfortably BUT I know this... anytime I have a shaft that loads oddly due to not enough flex, I push the drive. My tempo is a bit quick but definitely need something with a very very stiff tip with a torque rating less than 4.6.

    Best recent driver I borrowed was a M2 with a diamana x-stiff. I didn't particularly like the driver at address, but the shaft made me feel comfortable to swing for the fences and it worked very well.
    Jesus, where to begin with this...What does "swing weight balanced" mean? If you know what swing weight you like, just order your irons with that SW. Telling a fitter you want something 'balanced' shows you absolutely don't know what you're talking about. Go somewhere good, shut up, and let them fit you.

    Tolerances are very tight these days, so getting irons (which never needed it) spine aligned, is just a waste a money. In fact, it's also worthless to get done for graphite shafts. Burn a couple hundred bucks in a fire and you'll see the same amount of impact on your golf game.

    In the same thread, I do agree that finding a shaft that works for you is vital. However, shaft A in driver head A, is going to play differently than shaft A in driver head B. You mentioned you liked a Diamana X-Stiff shaft, but there are a ton of variations to consider. First, there are 3 different shaft profiles in the Diamana range - Whiteboard, Blueboard and Redboard. Then you've got multiple weights, flexes and then there are multiple generations within the Diamana range. Finally, you can purchase 'made for' shafts and the 'real deal' versions of exactly the same shaft. The 'real deal' Diamana's have more premium materials than the off the shelf/stock offerings - these go for $3-350 USD for the shaft alone. However, you do get a few more options in stiffness/weights, which sounds like you could make use of, if you are truly in the 115-120 range (not some GolfTown or cheapo swing speed reader).

    Then, if you decide to try a different brand or model of shaft out, the flexes are not the same. Something that plays Stiff in one brand, might be closer to X-Stiff in another brand. Much like that random 4.6 torque rating you threw out there. It's arbitrary because you can have a very tip stiff shaft, but a soft butt which will feel and play wildly different than something with a stiff handle and stiff tip. Something might 'load oddly' because the shaft profile might not be for you.

    Throw everything you think you know aside and get fitted or you need to start buying a ton of equipment and figure out what works best for you. Nothing wrong with the later, I'm a club ho myself (but have been fitted multiple times).

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    Quote Originally Posted by npham View Post
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    Jesus, where to begin with this...What does "swing weight balanced" mean? If you know what swing weight you like, just order your irons with that SW. Telling a fitter you want something 'balanced' shows you absolutely don't know what you're talking about. Go somewhere good, shut up, and let them fit you.

    Tolerances are very tight these days, so getting irons (which never needed it) spine aligned, is just a waste a money. In fact, it's also worthless to get done for graphite shafts. Burn a couple hundred bucks in a fire and you'll see the same amount of impact on your golf game.

    In the same thread, I do agree that finding a shaft that works for you is vital. However, shaft A in driver head A, is going to play differently than shaft A in driver head B. You mentioned you liked a Diamana X-Stiff shaft, but there are a ton of variations to consider. First, there are 3 different shaft profiles in the Diamana range - Whiteboard, Blueboard and Redboard. Then you've got multiple weights, flexes and then there are multiple generations within the Diamana range. Finally, you can purchase 'made for' shafts and the 'real deal' versions of exactly the same shaft. The 'real deal' Diamana's have more premium materials than the off the shelf/stock offerings - these go for $3-350 USD for the shaft alone. However, you do get a few more options in stiffness/weights, which sounds like you could make use of, if you are truly in the 115-120 range (not some GolfTown or cheapo swing speed reader).

    Then, if you decide to try a different brand or model of shaft out, the flexes are not the same. Something that plays Stiff in one brand, might be closer to X-Stiff in another brand. Much like that random 4.6 torque rating you threw out there. It's arbitrary because you can have a very tip stiff shaft, but a soft butt which will feel and play wildly different than something with a stiff handle and stiff tip. Something might 'load oddly' because the shaft profile might not be for you.

    Throw everything you think you know aside and get fitted or you need to start buying a ton of equipment and figure out what works best for you. Nothing wrong with the later, I'm a club ho myself (but have been fitted multiple times).
    hey I'm talking about in the day where I'd tinker with lead tape and different grips to get to an ideal swing weight that I preferred for my tempo... but yes, the problem with his setup, was that I didn't pay attention to the specific Diamana shaft in the M2 but I did feel really comfortable with the club, and I recall it being an X-stiff and yes I completely understand the variations.

    I've been using relatively low torque tip ratings since the Fenwick shafts I used, UST perforce 65 and EI70 that I trusted years ago... and have tried Graffaloy Blue and Adila NV series -- I think that from mid to low shaft kick points with low torque is pretty much the norm... but I absolutely agree, getting a proper fitting especially for Drivers/Woods makes sense. I think for Irons, the fitting is important if you deviate from standard lie, can't generate the clubhead speed and aren't coming into impact position with the lag to use the loft of the club properly.

    Does anyone ever still shaft up steel in their drivers? I used a 43.5 inch x-100 in a 983K 9deg driver years ago.... I found I was consistent with moving the ball but it really really hurt distance and added a tremendous amount of backspin.
    Last edited by r3ccOs; 09-21-2020 at 11:12 AM.

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    Has anyone used GolfTec for a club fitting? Seems to be the only one here in Sask.

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    Quote Originally Posted by r3ccOs View Post
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    hey I'm talking about in the day where I'd tinker with lead tape and different grips to get to an ideal swing weight that I preferred for my tempo... but yes, the problem with his setup, was that I didn't pay attention to the specific Diamana shaft in the M2 but I did feel really comfortable with the club, and I recall it being an X-stiff and yes I completely understand the variations.

    I've been using relatively low torque tip ratings since the Fenwick shafts I used, UST perforce 65 and EI70 that I trusted years ago... and have tried Graffaloy Blue and Adila NV series -- I think that from mid to low shaft kick points with low torque is pretty much the norm... but I absolutely agree, getting a proper fitting especially for Drivers/Woods makes sense. I think for Irons, the fitting is important if you deviate from standard lie, can't generate the clubhead speed and aren't coming into impact position with the lag to use the loft of the club properly.

    Does anyone ever still shaft up steel in their drivers? I used a 43.5 inch x-100 in a 983K 9deg driver years ago.... I found I was consistent with moving the ball but it really really hurt distance and added a tremendous amount of backspin.
    I went and tried a buncha old trade in, demo and modern clubs off a matt with different shaft arrangements on a simulator

    I still like the loading of Dynamic Gold shafts, but my swing tempo actually suits a more basic TT lite XL... that said the DG ball flight does come off lower by a couple degrees, and with an S400 rather than a S300, it can still work for my tempo.

    I tried a buncha Cavity back irons from the old Burner 2.0, to the latest M2 offerings, Ping G400, to a couple old players blade offerings (Cleveland GC1s)... I'm finding that the latest cavity back iron lofts are crazy strong compared to the more traditional player offerings BUT - carry distance is still simlar though being 2+ deg stronger than muscle backs. I believe that due to a smaller sweet spot is that with the same Club head speed, the ball comes off hotter, flatter... however on mishits, there is no comparison at all.

    For fun, I took a set of Cobra F9 1 length - stiff with oversized GP MCC+ (I guess a simlar setup to Bryson) and yes... it makes the game easy. The wedge and 9 are "odd" but the longer irons are very close in distance to traditional irons though the flight is completely different. There is no doubt that if I spent the $1200 bucks on the F9's, I'd probably score better with where my game is. However with all the irons I tried, I think its true, nothing feels like Mizuno lol

    Wedge wise? - I still can't replace my old Cleveland RTG 588s. My wife's vokeys are close, but I just love the feel of the wedges I've had since a Jr. - so I'll get them resharpened

    Putter wise? - I've had from Ping A-blade, varying mallets from Zebra's to 2 balls, a couple newports from Scotty (oil can, platnium), a old Bettinardi BH5 when they were still with Hogan - and still... I am most consistent with my old Bobby Grace pip squeak

    Driver and wood wise - definately a Journey. After trying a bunch out (new and used) - I am longest and most consistent with a Ping G400 BUT I can shape an older 425 R7 the best with not a huge difference in distance (that said very different shafts - Adila NVS X vs a Diamana 70 x)
    Last edited by r3ccOs; 10-17-2020 at 11:46 AM.

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    Where did you go? Sounds like you’re talking about golf traders. If their sim is the same one they had before (I.e. not trackman of GC quad), the results are questionable. Some of the things you’re saying make it seem like the sim you used wasn’t super accurate. I’ve spent hours on various sims, and the only ones that you can remotely trust are the two I mentioned. Which, funny enough, can be found at the place I suggested at the top of the thread.

    Alternatively, just play what you like and don’t look back. There’s something to be said about that approach. But if you’re going to get fitted, do it right or you’re wasting time and money.

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