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Thread: Replacing a sway bar end link

  1. #1
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    Default Replacing a sway bar end link

    Not sure if I'm going to regret doing this or not. Need to replace the sway bar end link on the wife's MDX. Am I going to regret this decision since I don't have a garage and will be doing it in front of our house? Any advise?

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    Wait til its above 0 in the daytime - should be back towards month end.

    Apply penetrant 24 hours before attempting work.

    Have hacksaw ready.

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    Quote Originally Posted by revelations View Post
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    Wait til its above 0 in the daytime - should be back towards month end.

    Apply penetrant 24 hours before attempting work.

    Have hacksaw ready.
    I would say full on grinder if you have it. Did the end links on the gfs crv and what a bitch fest.

    Make sure you get some antiseize when re-installing.

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    Anti-seize, a torch, rust penetrator. Lots of beers and swears. Co-worker replaced links and control arm on a Jeep Patriot and he was there at 9am, didn't finish till about 6. And this is in a shop with tools. Tons of rusted bolts/nuts. Burning of bushings with torch. Good luck hope its straight forward since its just a end link
    Originally posted by GTS Jeff
    You know those bored stay at home moms who's entire lives revolve around driving their kids to soccer, various cleaning accessories, and worrying about neighbourhood rapists? The kind of people that watch the View and go "uh huh..." Those unfulfilled people who try to fill the void in their empty lives by writing whiny letters to the editor complaining about shit that no one really cares about?

    Well imagine if instead of writing that letter to the editor, she just posts on a car forum for car enthusiasts. That's Kritafo.

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    How much would this cost in a shop? It sounds like a pretty horrible job.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ThePenIsMightier View Post
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    How much would this cost in a shop? It sounds like a pretty horrible job.
    That's what I'm thinking. If I had a garage, I would question it, just do. I'll call a shop to see. If it's a couple hundred, might not be worth my time. The wife will no doubt be asking when I'll be done the whole time.

    I have a grinder, sawsall, propane torch (no oxy/acetylene) hand tools and a small cordless impact gun.

    We'll see
    Last edited by arcticcat522; 10-21-2020 at 11:10 AM.

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    Most shops charge 1/2 to 1 hour to do a link.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Twin_Cam_Turbo View Post
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    Most shops charge 1/2 to 1 hour to do a link.
    Shit, that won't be too bad

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    Quote Originally Posted by arcticcat522 View Post
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    Shit, that won't be too bad
    Till you find out what shop rates are

    But how much is our time worth and how much is the wife asking "are you done yet" worth to you?

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    Unlike some of the other guys, I changed out both endlinks on my TL when I had it, and they were rusted on, but once the penetrant started to work, they were a piece of piss .

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    wouldn't you need an alignment afterwards?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jabjab View Post
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    wouldn't you need an alignment afterwards?
    Sway bars don't affect alignment.

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    Not a bad idea to get an alignment done anyway - if its been years since. I've seen vehicles with off alignments from the factory.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Twin_Cam_Turbo View Post
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    Most shops charge 1/2 to 1 hour to do a link.
    Holy Christ - shut up and take my money!!!!!!!1!1!!!
    No fucking way I'd take this shit on in a driveway to save $144... And, I'm a cheap kOOnt!!

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    Had a shop do this since I was busy finishing up some yard work while the weather was nice. $75 x 2 for parts, $150 for labour. Not bad, but if I had a garage, I would have liked to do it.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by ThePenIsMightier View Post
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    Holy Christ - shut up and take my money!!!!!!!1!1!!!
    No fucking way I'd take this shit on in a driveway to save $144... And, I'm a cheap kOOnt!!
    Priced out the end links from Napa. Range was $33-56 each. Could have saved a couple hundred. Not too bad though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by arcticcat522 View Post
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    Had a shop do this since I was busy finishing up some yard work while the weather was nice. $75 x 2 for parts, $150 for labour. Not bad, but if I had a garage, I would have liked to do it.

    - - - Updated - - -



    Priced out the end links from Napa. Range was $33-56 each. Could have saved a couple hundred. Not too bad though.
    I think you made the right choice. Jobs where it's guaranteed to hit multiple, completely seized and corroded parts are where pro's shine, and amateurs... Have a car on blocks for 9 days.

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    I did this on my wife's Pontiac Vibe a few months back, whoever thought it was a good idea to have a HEX inside of a bolt should be shot. Not only does this make it nearly impossible to remove when rusted, it also makes it pretty freaking finicky when installing brand new ones. For best results, DO NOT use a basic Allen wrench when torqueing and instead get a tool socket that has the allen key on the end. On my wife's I basically used a Dremel cutoff wheel to get them fuckers off. If you want to do this quick and your car as pretty old, just go for the cutoff right away and avoid all other attempts to undo the nut.

    I did this in the summer in the garage, and all was great until it got cold, and then I heard a constant bang out of the back of the car. Right away lifted it and found the previously mentioned allen key socket, and was able to rotate the nut much further then I was able to do with a basic Allen wrench initially. Guess I didn't tighten it hard enough and when it got cold, metal shrunk and it started moving in the hole. After tightening further all is right.

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    I recently did the rear links on the Mk5 and instead of an allen keyed VW used a Torx inside the bolt.
    It immediately disintegrated as soon as I applied and torque on the nut. Also resorted to cutting the stupid thing off.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by ianmcc View Post
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    I recently did the rear links on the Mk5 and instead of an allen keyed VW used a Torx inside the bolt.
    It immediately disintegrated as soon as I applied and torque on the nut. Also resorted to cutting the stupid thing off.
    If I had the address of the Torx inventor, I'd mail it some CoVid dumps soaked in asparagus-piss.

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