26x27 garage build.

[littledan]

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1 inch separation is whats required. Its a 4" vent pipe. The larger looking pipe towards to upper portion is being used as an insulation barrier and has more than 1" between it and the 4"

[raceman6135]

My inspector insisted that I install a "T" and drip leg on my vent, and pointed out in my Reznor UDAP 45 manual where it states: "[When] installed in low ambient conditions (below 50°F), it is recommended that vent pipes be fitted with a tee, a drip leg, and a clean out cap to prevent any moisture in the vent pipe from entering the unit. The drip leg should be inspected and cleaned out periodically during the heating season."

Here is what I did to pass my inspection:

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Installed the vent for my heater. Hope it meets code. Anyone have any idea?Attachment 101104Attachment 101105

[arcticcat522]

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My inspector insisted that I install a "T" and drip leg on my vent, and pointed out in my Reznor UDAP 45 manual where it states: "[When] installed in low ambient conditions (below 50°F), it is recommended that vent pipes be fitted with a tee, a drip leg, and a clean out cap to prevent any moisture in the vent pipe from entering the unit. The drip leg should be inspected and cleaned out periodically during the heating season."

Here is what I did to pass my inspection:

Thanks for this....its going g to be a pain in my ass to retrofit.

Thanks for posting! Much appreciated.

[Darkane]

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My inspector insisted that I install a "T" and drip leg on my vent, and pointed out in my Reznor UDAP 45 manual where it states: "[When] installed in low ambient conditions (below 50°F), it is recommended that vent pipes be fitted with a tee, a drip leg, and a clean out cap to prevent any moisture in the vent pipe from entering the unit. The drip leg should be inspected and cleaned out periodically during the heating season."

Here is what I did to pass my inspection:

Interesting! This is likely only vertical, roof exit?

[legendboy]

Yep, horizontal flue only needs a slope

[arcticcat522]

Built a raised garden bed as a start to putting the yard back together.

Are you supposed to stain Cedar in this application? Or good just to leave it?

[ThePenIsMightier]

Cedar "silvers" about as fast as aluminum oxidizes so I think you need to just come to terms with it staying that colour for about 5 entire minutes.
The layer of "silver" protects it from rot for decades. I wouldn't stain it.

*But it ain't staying that nice wood colour.

[ganesh]

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Cedar "silvers" about as fast as aluminum oxidizes so I think you need to just come to terms with it staying that colour for about 5 entire minutes.
The layer of "silver" protects it from rot for decades. I wouldn't stain it.

*But it ain't staying that nice wood colour.

+1
I have cedar fence. It is nice and looks good as long as you maintain it.
This is what I use for stain (C2 Guard for Wood) and I highly recommend this,
https://www.wallsalive.com/stain/c2-guard.html

[arcticcat522]

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Cedar "silvers" about as fast as aluminum oxidizes so I think you need to just come to terms with it staying that colour for about 5 entire minutes.
The layer of "silver" protects it from rot for decades. I wouldn't stain it.

*But it ain't staying that nice wood colour.

Im aware it turns silver, and thought it didn't need stain. Just making sure I'm not imagining things... might stain it though. Who knows.

- - - Updated - - -

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My inspector insisted that I install a "T" and drip leg on my vent, and pointed out in my Reznor UDAP 45 manual where it states: "[When] installed in low ambient conditions (below 50°F), it is recommended that vent pipes be fitted with a tee, a drip leg, and a clean out cap to prevent any moisture in the vent pipe from entering the unit. The drip leg should be inspected and cleaned out periodically during the heating season."

Here is what I did to pass my inspection:

Get the gas hooked up yet? Know a guy who wants to hook up mine?

[raceman6135]

Sorry, I should have mentioned that this pic was taken a couple years ago, during the install. Everything's been up and running trouble-free since then, but thanks!

The gas guy I had was pretty much retired at that time and only did mine because I had him do a previous job for me the year before. I checked with him yesterday and he said he won't be taking new jobs for a while. Sorry

[arcticcat522]

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Sorry, I should have mentioned that this pic was taken a couple years ago, during the install. Everything's been up and running trouble-free since then, but thanks!

The gas guy I had was pretty much retired at that time and only did mine because I had him do a previous job for me the year before. I checked with him yesterday and he said he won't be taking new jobs for a while. Sorry

Thanks for looking into it!

[cyra1ax]

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Thanks for looking into it!

You just need a guy to tie in the heater right? All the line is already run?
Might have a guy, no idea what he's going to charge for tie-in though. He did a pretty good job running my gas line though.

[arcticcat522]

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You just need a guy to tie in the heater right? All the line is already run?
Might have a guy, no idea what he's going to charge for tie-in though. He did a pretty good job running my gas line though.

You bet @cyra1ax . Tie in the heater, check everything looks good and pull a permit....if he would....

[arcticcat522]

Little closer.....

[ExtraSlow]

Superlike

[firebane]

So jelly

[arcticcat522]

They need to put a fire barrier on spray foam and since I'm not installing drywall, thermal paint it is. Plus it brightens the space a bit.

[ExtraSlow]

Like that a lot.

[ThePenIsMightier]

Keep in mind that "fire barrier" will still burn and then the foam is as flammable as match heads. It buys you some seconds.
Which company did you use that was not Midgaard?

[arcticcat522]

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Keep in mind that "fire barrier" will still burn and then the foam is as flammable as match heads. It buys you some seconds.
Which company did you use that was not Midgaard?

I think its bs to require it in a garage. I understand in a dwelling, but don't think it should be required in a detached garage.....company was called spray foamworks. Seemed to do a good job. Foam was slightly more expensive then other quotes, the bat/poly was the same and thermal paint was a fair amount cheaper. Overall was about $500 cheaper than other quotes. And was recommended by my builder. They installed the bat and poly for the walls cheaper than I could buy it