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  1. #161
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    Why did you remove your vapor barrier? Don't you need that?
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    You realize you are talking to the guy who made his own furniture out of salad bowls right?

  2. #162
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    Yea, that's supposed to be there by code. Either pressure treated wood for the footer or vapour barrier to seperate concrete from wood. That footer will rot over time if you remove the vapour barrier

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    Judging by the looks of that wood, the vapour barrier wasn’t working too well anyhow.

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    If you spray foam the walls with 2-pound foam, you shouldn't need to worry about it but it's still good to have it there as a minor water event will not have a chance to sit against the bottom plate and rot it.
    The nickels builders save by not using fully pressure treated bottom plates would add up to a phone call to Saskatchewan...
    I think they still need to use medium grade pressure treated, or whatever it's called, but fully outdoor would be what I would use.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cjblair View Post
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    Judging by the looks of that wood, the vapour barrier wasn’t working too well anyhow.
    Wood looks fine. Most of Calgary is bone dry so the VB suffices as protection. As big penor stated though PT should have been used.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ca_Silvia13 View Post
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    Trying to fix the PO basement reno. He put vapor barrier directly on the concrete wall and tucked it under the footer board for the wall framing. I've cut out most of the vapor barrier on the walls but the portion under the board will not come out unless I remove the framing. Does that poly need to be removed or can it stay?

    Attachment 105820
    Yea thats fine where it is. Air can circulate around it just fine so there is no harm in leaving it. If its under the bottom plate that's fine too as it helps provide separation for the wood and concrete. In some fancier builds (or where they cant get PT lumber) they will actually run a tape/membrane under the bottom plate to help isolate it. Just remember when you're redoing it properly to run acoustic sealant all around the parameter of vapor barrier to get that seal.


    Quote Originally Posted by ExtraSlow View Post
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    Why did you remove your vapor barrier? Don't you need that?
    Usually it goes concrete wall, air space, framing with insulation, then vapor barrier on top directly under your drywall.
    Last edited by schurchill39; 04-21-2022 at 08:38 AM.
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  7. #167
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    Yes, your vapour barrier needs to be on the warm side of the insulation or else you'll get condensation in your wall cavity/insulation.

    Leave the poly under the base plate, insulate your walls with batts and then poly under the drywall.

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    Quote Originally Posted by suntan View Post
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    For basements?

    Trent at https://www.affordablebasements.ca/
    got a quote from Trent, nice guy, but the 700sqft development is gonna cost us 85k (full legal suite, second furnace, smoke sealing, etc.)

  9. #169
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    Well yeah. Just the furnace is 10k at least.

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    Legal suite adds like 30k to a basement.
    Quote Originally Posted by killramos View Post
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    You realize you are talking to the guy who made his own furniture out of salad bowls right?

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    yep, i agree with you guys, but back about 2 years ago it was around 55k. the liberals gonna give me 7500 back next year apparently for building a suite.

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    "apparently"?
    Sounds legit. Liberal tax promises are best promises.

  13. #173
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    Home stretch now…. Drywallers finally wrapped up and everything primed and ready for tile, finisher, paint and carpet.

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    General contractors should take a larger cut then 10% (or whatever they take) dealing with subs all day lol.

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    Looking great! Dealing with subs sucks. My painters were a bit of a fuck show but what ever it’s done. Picked up tile today but I’ve got some floor prep to do before I start laying it down. Not looking forward to grinding concrete.

    If you’re supplying material for the finisher, pick up trim and baseboards from the Windsor Plywood in the dirty south. I did a ton of shopping around for that stuff and they blew everyone out of the water on price. I got my material plus delivery for less than material alone from the next cheapest place.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 88CRX View Post
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    Home stretch now…. Drywallers finally wrapped up and everything primed and ready for tile, finisher, paint and carpet.

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    General contractors should take a larger cut then 10% (or whatever they take) dealing with subs all day lol.
    Looks good Ryan.

    Be curious how much everything ends up costing you in the end.

  16. #176
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    Does anyone have a reasonably priced and reasonable turn around time cabinet shop they have used lately? I'm looking for an 8' long wet bar with 2x base cabinets, filler pieces and 3x uppers with glass doors. I was going to go the Ikea route but they only have white cabinet carcasses available by the looks of their website and I was hoping for something dark.

    I'm not looking to compete with Ikea pricing but I don't want to pay beyond baller pricing either. Also something better than a 4 month turn around sure would be nice.
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  17. #177
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    Spray Foam and Electrical was completed last week so this weekend was insulation/VB with the wife. It went very smooth till I hurt my back on Saturday night.

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  18. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ca_Silvia13 View Post
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    It went very smooth till I hurt my back on Saturday night.
    Gotta lift that insulation with your knees, not your back.

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    ^LoL BCS you fuckin dink!

    Quote Originally Posted by Ca_Silvia13 View Post
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    Spray Foam and Electrical was completed last week so this weekend was insulation/VB with the wife. It went very smooth till I hurt my back on Saturday night.

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    Name:  Start of Insulation.jpg
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    That grey foam looks like Icynene. Please please tell me you didn't use the company called Midgaard!

  20. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ca_Silvia13 View Post
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    Spray Foam and Electrical was completed last week so this weekend was insulation/VB with the wife. It went very smooth till I hurt my back on Saturday night.
    I mean I guess that's nice but sorta pointless. You'd just be better off filling the cavity with Roxul up to R40.

    Should've also used Roxul on the walls, you get more R value per inch with it.

    Also the R12 might not meet current code.
    Last edited by suntan; 05-24-2022 at 10:40 AM.

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