Lets talk basement finishing...

[88CRX]

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Ii think that's just a sleeve. You need to scoop a bunch of that gravel out to find the actual drain and it will be much much smaller diameter.
You're almost certainly fine.

Edit...
I think Picture > Me.
I still think you're fine as I believe there are adapter options to move slightly, etc.

Yea sorry, theres a pipe in there... in the sleeve, kinda hard to see. I'd assume its fine to shift slightly, no chance it ever gets roughed in exactly.

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Jackhammering concrete is actually no big deal anyway. Don't be scared of that.

Yea totally, just trying to keep this moving forward and avoiding jackhammering and concrete repair. I just tested positive with the rona (mother fucker) so everything is gonna push back by another couple weeks now, so if i can line everything up for plumbing rough in 2 weeks I'd prefer to get a base that just works.

- - - Updated - - -

Also pot light cans are an issue in several spots (fucking hvac lol) but everything is all framed up so we finally have progress!

Had a pile of trades lined up this week which is all postponed now.

[88CRX]

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Anyone know any good finishers for baseboards and stair casings?

I've just contacted Celtic Finish based on my googling skills but interested in more names if anyone has any recommendations.

[mr2mike]

Honestly, if you're going this far, jackhammer the floor if you think you'll never be happy with the shower spot.

Probably 6" of concrete or less and gravel under it.could diy it and not bat an eye.
Obviously pull the material all away and have the plumber do the runs so they're sloped and p trapped properly.

[schurchill39]

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Yea sorry, theres a pipe in there... in the sleeve, kinda hard to see. I'd assume its fine to shift slightly, no chance it ever gets roughed in exactly.

Yea totally, just trying to keep this moving forward and avoiding jackhammering and concrete repair. I just tested positive with the rona (mother fucker) so everything is gonna push back by another couple weeks now, so if i can line everything up for plumbing rough in 2 weeks I'd prefer to get a base that just works.

Had a pile of trades lined up this week which is all postponed now.

Pull all the gravel out from around the main pipe and see where the P-trap goes. If you can cut it off and move it closer it will cost you $3 in parts and about 15 minutes of time. If once you remove the gravel and it won't work then get yourself a cheap masonry bit from curb side pick up at home depot or lowes (or ask someone to drop it off for you) and just use your drill to drill a bunch of holes then break it out with a hammer. There is no need to jack hammer anything but a hammer drill will make it easier, it will only be 3-4" of concrete and then you need to cut that plastic ring. Either way you look at it its about one of the easiest things you can do and shouldn't take any more than hour. If you're already home with the rona and feeling okay it and will save you a few hundred from having the plumber do that portion

Also, there is a good chance when you have the plumber come they will just back fill the hole entirely with gravel and then set your shower base right on top of that as its a small hole. They probably won't cement anything as long as they can get the gravel up to floor level as your shower base has styrofoam or wood support under it and your drain needs be glued directly onto the pipe (that is unless you're having him do two trips to set the base because you're on the double meat sub salary). For your rough in inspection you can just take pictures of the p-trap installed correctly in the hole before you back fill it and install the base but the inspector usually doesn't even look at that.

In this picture you can see the ring cut and the concreate broken away with the p-trap installed to move it over just a bit.
This is a look at the hole I had to make. I think I extended it over about 4" total.
This was for the start of my bar rough in. I had access to an SDS rotary hammer drill to make quicker work of it but the concept is the same for what you would need to do with a regular drill and a masonary bit. Just drill a bunch of holes, if it won't break drill more holes. Here was the final size of that hole and the drain install.

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Also pot light cans are an issue in several spots (fucking hvac lol) but everything is all framed up so we finally have progress!

I hate to say I told you so but I fuckin' todda so!

[pheoxs]

Also curious where a good option to buy new baseboards are. Will likely diy install but want some options for nice choices at reasonable (ish) prices. Not necessarily looking for cheapest.

[schurchill39]

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Also curious where a good option to buy new baseboards are. Will likely diy install but want some options for nice choices at reasonable (ish) prices. Not necessarily looking for cheapest.

Windsor plywood. Go to one and find a style you like then call all the other ones to get a price. All of them are stand alone stores and you can some times find better prices on the same product by going to a different one.

[pheoxs]

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Windsor plywood. Go to one and find a style you like then call all the other ones to get a price. All of them are stand alone stores and you can some times find better prices on the same product by going to a different one.

Perfect, thanks! Wasn't sure if it was the same brands everywhere or where was the easiest spot to see a few styles.

[Pauly Boy]

Timbertown had very good pricing when I was getting quotes for stuff - I'd check with them too.

I ended up using up a Home Depot gift card for our trims (no one else had our 4" ones in stock during the peak of the covid renovations), but Timber was my first choice for a lot of stuff.

[88CRX]

Good info @schurchill39 , thanks... do most shower bases not ask for a mortar bed? Or can you install without that?

And if they require a mortar bed i assume you just back fill the hole (either the hole i currently have or a larger jack-hammered hole).

[schurchill39]

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Good info... do most shower bases not ask for a mortar bed? Or can you install without that?

And if they require a mortar bed i assume you just back fill the hole (either the hole i currently have or a larger jack-hammered hole).

Some of them might if you really look for one but all of the modern pans don't. None of the shower pans I looked at by MAAX, ALTREK, or Delta required a mortar bed and most actually went as far as saying do not use expanding foam or a mortar bed. I ended up going with the MAAX Olympia and the whole fiberglass structure is supported with stiff styrofoam that rests right on the ground. When you stand on it you can't tell what section has concrete under it or what has gravel. If the pan you get requires a mortar bed then just backfill the hole and use an extra 1/4 to 1/2 bag of mortar (or my preference is sand/topping mix) to make up the difference you'd need.

EDIT: Definitely buy the pan before doing anything as that will give you specific instructions on how to prep the area, and lets you line up exactly where the drain needs to be. Put the lid back on the rough in location then set the pan on top of it and trace out the drain. Once you take it off transfer its location with cross hairs with a marker right on your floor so when you or your plumber is installing the drain they know where to align it like I did here.

[88CRX]

Perfect thanks.

And yea was hoping to order the pan now so the plumber can do his shit ASAP. Both the 60x30's pans we looked at required a mortar base (American Standard and DreamLine). The one pan has the drain off our rough in by an inch or so (hence my initial question) and the second one the drain needs to move into the concrete by a couple inches (so would require minor concrete removal). And my buddy has a hammer drill so thats no problem if we go that route.

[Yolobimmer]

Didn't read all this shit, but only 2 things after getting fucked.

1) Backflow preventer.
2) Ceiling - Gratuitous sound deadening in ceiling, sound isolation strips, 2 layers drywall, additional ventilation

[88CRX]

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Anyone know any good finishers for baseboards and stair casings?

This.

Any recommendations for a finishing contractor? Last piece of the puzzle.

[schurchill39]

@88CRX , when everything is said and done are you willing to share your $/sqft cost? I am really curious where it ends up with the current insane material prices and contracting most things out. I have a few friends looking to do basements but because I had a bunch of material already and am doing the majority myself I am not a good litmus test for them to get an idea of what development would cost. I'd guess probably somewhere around $45/sqft but I could be way off.

In 2019/2020 I was at $25/sqft doing it myself (minus carpet and drywall) but that was normal prices on material. My current basement is likely going up to around $30-35/sqft even with having 65% of the drywall, 80% of the wood, 80% of the electrical wiring and the majority of the lights but I am also going a little fancier than the last one.

[88CRX]

I will 100% share my actual costs once completed. Just trying to get a budget price for everything before I decide what if anything we're going to do ourselves. We're doing electrical ourselves for sure and might paint and we'll see about finishing once we get a few more numbers.

And my current budgeting is pretty much bang on for $45/ft2.

[88CRX]

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My biggest concern it getting subs to actually show up.

Faaaaaawk.

Anyone know an HVAC guy that can bash a couple ducts together.... and will actually show up and follow through with a quote and the work.

[cidley69]

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Faaaaaawk.

Anyone know an HVAC guy that can bash a couple ducts together.... and will actually show up and follow through with a quote and the work.

Also looking for HVAC recommendations.

[gpomp]

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Faaaaaawk.

Anyone know an HVAC guy that can bash a couple ducts together.... and will actually show up and follow through with a quote and the work.

I had a really small duct job, WJ showed up and did it.

[88CRX]

I found a local guy who banged some shit together last week for a couple hundred bucks... so that's all done. I should have just called W&J, they did our AC and were always good to deal with.

Plumber is doing rough ins this weekend and then we're off to the races with DIY electrical over the next 2 weeks, then I have drywall, finisher and painter all lined up in early/mid April.

[cidley69]

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I found a local guy who banged some shit together last week for a couple hundred bucks... so that's all done. I should have just called W&J, they did our AC and were always good to deal with.

Plumber is doing rough ins this weekend and then we're off to the races with DIY electrical over the next 2 weeks, then I have drywall, finisher and painter all lined up in early/mid April.

Can you share who you used for plumbing? PM if preferred.