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Thread: Lets talk basement finishing...

  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonJuan View Post
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    ...

    Is the spray foam that much better?
    It's a pretty amazing product, but its value is a long way from linear, so it's a luxury. Something like 3x better but 5x the price or however the Marth actually shakes out.

  2. #82
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    My strong reccomendation is to spend your money on things you won't change later IF you know you will be staying in the house >5 years. If you move often, go cheap and pay for lipstick.
    Quote Originally Posted by rage2 View Post
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    I almost shat myself after eating way too much at lunch with @killramos so ya, we can start the diaper thread now.

  3. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asian_defender View Post
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    No, its like 6(ish) inches above the floor
    Attachment 103851
    That's more than close enough to the window to meet code.

  4. #84
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    best thing you can do is install a subfloor. Lots of ways to do it but helps a lot with warmth.

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    Quote Originally Posted by OU812 View Post
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    best thing you can do is install a subfloor. Lots of ways to do it but helps a lot with warmth.
    This guy know his shit, very reputable.
    Quote Originally Posted by rage2 View Post
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    I almost shat myself after eating way too much at lunch with @killramos so ya, we can start the diaper thread now.

  6. #86
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    BUMP! Framing finally getting done this weekend, woo!

    As far as recessed pot lights am I nuts in wanting typical cans with LED bulbs instead of the integrated LED fixtures? If one burns out and they dont all match that would drive me fucking nuts.

    I want this:


    Not this:

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    I hate pot lights, but you are smart to have fixtures that can have the bulbs swapped easily.
    Quote Originally Posted by rage2 View Post
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    I almost shat myself after eating way too much at lunch with @killramos so ya, we can start the diaper thread now.

  8. #88
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    LED pucks are great for showers, other than that don't put them in.

  9. #89
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    I did the cans in my last basement and really wish I wouldn't have. Its way more of a pain to install and align equal spacing taking into consideration where they will fit between floor joists and around wiring/HVAC and it actually really fucked up my original plans in a couple of spots making that room darker. Its more work to cut out around, mud, and spray a ceiling (which I assume you will farm out which means more time and money on your bill) and it is more expensive. A low end can will cost you like $20-25 if you get them in bulk but if you are insulating the joists then you could be looking upwards of $40 depending on size. The biggest surprise to me was the cost of the trims at $20 -$45 each depending on what you want Then on top of that you have the cost of the the light bulbs which you're in the same predicament if one has a slightly different colour when you replace it.

    The flat ones are $20-40 each depending if you want one color range, have it selectable, or can get a bulk discount. They are also WAY more flexible for placement. You can get low profile ones that will fit under hvac runs with some strapping on the ceiling. Drywall can be put up in sheets and finished/textured in one run and as long as you have your wires where you need them install is easy with a laser. There are only a couple manufacturers of the flat ones so your color ranges should all be the same and if you're worried grab a couple spares with what you'd save.

    My current basement is going to have 30 lights total and I'm looking at the same cost for materials as I did on my last house with 15 pot lights and way less headache on placement.
    Last edited by schurchill39; 02-23-2022 at 12:34 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by rage2 View Post
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    ...Last thing I want is someone reading my posts and losing their cock over it...
    Quote Originally Posted by Sugarphreak
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    Meh, they all look like Jackie Chan to me
    Quote Originally Posted by ExtraSlow View Post
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    Which one has best efficacy at enlarging my dank?

  10. #90
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    Mine are the pot lights like your latter pic. They all use a standard par20 bulb size so it's never been an issue replacing things. With LEDs lasting nearly forever I figure if/when any burn out I can just replace them all. I do have a couple spares though since they are cheaper in 6 packs and I needed an odd number. So if one or two freakishly burn out I'm good.
    Nolan

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    Quote Originally Posted by 88CRX View Post
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    Not this:
    I went with these in my house because of the smaller foot print and you can put them anywhere.

    They also have versions that can go into a regular box. For me, the cans were more expensive overall. The flat lines are cheaper and easily replaceable.

  12. #92
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    I used the big cans, no complaints here - it takes some measuring to get them located right but if you can operate a tape measure they are a breeze. Bulbs are super easy to change.

    We also have wall sconces in the same room and everything on dimmers so we can adjust lighting levels/direction as needed.

  13. #93
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    Big cans are timeless (in all meanings of the term).

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    Nice. Glad I'm not stupid, thanks guys.... doing 5" cans to match the rest of the house.

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    Only downside I can think of for Big Cans are potentially more sound transfer compared to sound deadening on back side of the pucks (and FLBP.)

  16. #96
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    Cans are the way to go if you have the space. We did them when we redid the main floor.

    Put those little pucks in our basement since we have a shit storm of ducting, plumbing, etc., and an already low ceiling.

  17. #97
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    Anyone know any good finishers for baseboards and stair casings?

  18. #98
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    Waiting to hear back from a plumber but will he be able to shift the drain location by 1-2” over in the roughed in box out easily? Needs to shift slightly to accommodate a shower base. Obviously trying to avoid jackhammering concrete.

    88188C65-6611-4F48-AAD4-09F6EFAB7CD6.jpg

    I assume it’s ok. But if we’re removing concrete we have many more shower base options.

  19. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by 88CRX View Post
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    Waiting to hear back from a plumber but will he be able to shift the drain location by 1-2” over in the roughed in box out easily? Needs to shift slightly to accommodate a shower base. Obviously trying to avoid jackhammering concrete.

    88188C65-6611-4F48-AAD4-09F6EFAB7CD6.jpg

    I assume it’s ok. But if we’re removing concrete we have many more shower base options.
    Ii think that's just a sleeve. You need to scoop a bunch of that gravel out to find the actual drain and it will be much much smaller diameter.
    You're almost certainly fine.

    Edit...
    I think Picture > Me.
    I still think you're fine as I believe there are adapter options to move slightly, etc.
    Last edited by ThePenIsMightier; 03-01-2022 at 12:06 PM.

  20. #100
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    Jackhammering concrete is actually no big deal anyway. Don't be scared of that.
    Quote Originally Posted by rage2 View Post
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    I almost shat myself after eating way too much at lunch with @killramos so ya, we can start the diaper thread now.

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