When did you do your basement? $20k doesn’t get you that far in this current market.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
When did you do your basement? $20k doesn’t get you that far in this current market.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
He just has some studs, a sofa and an extension cord to the TV.
To be fair, this was 2019. I would imagine it would be more for sure but the savings i feel would be similar. Id expect $10k on top of the subs for the GC.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Yea i never got any formal GC quotes... but I'd expect an increase in price difference these days just with how busy everyone is. And I always thought the GC's were taking 10-15% on top but I suppose there is also lots of ticky-tack scopes in there that they do themselves.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
But yes most of my subs have noted that material costs are through the roof (obviously) with many of them noting that most has doubled in the last couple years.
Passed electrical, awesome!
How was the inspection? Both electrical inspections I had were about 5 minutes.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show QuoteOriginally Posted by SugarphreakThis quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show QuoteThis quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Plumber last week was about 30 seconds then we just chatted for 5 minutes. No final inspection required.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Framing was done virtually, took about about 3 minutes cause she wanted the existing window measured and to see our basement stair handrail (which is currently uninstalled). No final inspection required.
Electrical this morning was about 5 minutes as well. He did point out that we need specific CAFCI breakers for any circuits with plugs, which is all 3 of our new circuits, which sucks cause they're pricey. If we had knows that before we would have wired the plugs separately but not a huge deal. They require an electrical final inspection once we're done.
Should we energize anything prior to the drywaller? We have some energized boxes due to some existing plugs and lights that were being left as is. Not sure how that typically works or what drywallers typically want (I'll ask our guy).
A couple plugs is all they need for their rotary tool (if not cordless) and mixers plus an LED light or two. So if you have two existing plugs anywhere in the basement you are probably fine.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show QuoteOriginally Posted by SugarphreakThis quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show QuoteThis quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
"Any"??!This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
WtF?!?! It was only in the bedrooms when I did it.
He said the code on it has recently changed. Any circuit with a plug on it requires CAFCI breakers.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Ug.
Like $70 bucks a pop or what? Some older Federal Pioneer panels don't even have the correct arc fault breakers. They have some, but apparently they are the wrong kind of arc fault breaker....
Yea they’re $70+ a pop. Had to order the double ones online cause Home Depot or Lowe’s don’t seem to stock them.
Yeah, I had a fun argument with the city about AFCI protection over what constitutes a “dwelling unit” when I finished my garage.
I wound up not buying the breakers and using two AFCI blank receptacles, one at the start of each circuit.
See Crank. See Crank Walk. Walk Crank Walk.
They were $120 when I bought them and I seriously considered the cost of corpse disposal for an inspector...
This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show QuoteI didn't have space in my panel for every plug run to be on an AFCI so I did a bit of a shuffle which included what @FraserB . First I swapped the hot water tank plug in and the utility room plug ins for AFCI receptacles (with some left over armoured cable from the panel out to them) and replaced those breakers with regular half sized breakers. Then I took their AFCI breakers and put them on 2 of the 3 new runs for the basement. With the last one I just used a half sized regular breaker in the panel then out to a blank AFCI receptacle before going to the plug run. It was a bit of a fuck around but it satisfied code of every receptacle in a dwelling being protected by arc fault. Thank god the lights don't need to be on AFCI or I'd need to run a sub panel.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
It didn't help that I had to trace and redo the previous home owners half assed wiring which turned into re-mapping the whole panel because about 1/2 of the breakers were labeled wrong. So when I got around to adding in my electrical runs I was pretty familiar with it.
Last edited by schurchill39; 04-14-2022 at 09:03 AM.
This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show QuoteOriginally Posted by SugarphreakThis quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show QuoteThis quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Can confirm. Did mine a few years ago and basically ANY circuit with a plug requires an AFCI breaker. It's mentioned in the CoC wiring guide linked earlier.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
All branch circuits in a dwelling supplying 125V outlets rated 20A or less are to be protected by a combination-type arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI).
Only the following 15A or 20A outlets are excluded:
■ Kitchen counter, island and peninsula outlets
■ Kitchen refrigerator outlet
■ A cord connected sump pump on a separate breaker (the sump pump must only be plugged into a single receptacle and labeled sump pump use only)
Which we read and studied. And still totally spaced on that requirement lol.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Trying to fix the PO basement reno. He put vapor barrier directly on the concrete wall and tucked it under the footer board for the wall framing. I've cut out most of the vapor barrier on the walls but the portion under the board will not come out unless I remove the framing. Does that poly need to be removed or can it stay?
I think it is supposed to be there...between the bottom plate and concrete. Or should be pressure treated wood directly on the concrete...no?