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Thread: Furnace inducer motor question.

  1. #1
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    Default Furnace inducer motor question.

    Lennox 80UGH3/4-120A-3. 22ish years old. Furnace hasn't been firing.

    First time, I though it was flame sensor. I cleaned it. Ran for a while.

    Next time, I was checking to see if the inducer was seized and spun it manually. Fired up fine for a couple of days.

    This time, the only thing that would make it go was giggling the wires to the inducer. It goes into Watchguard mode otherwise. The furnace will start to spin up and I saw sparks in the red circle location. When there is a connection, the inducer spins fine. Seem like it is shorting out.

    Do I have to replace the whole thing, or can you service an inducer assembly?

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  2. #2
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    What's loose? The connector? Causing an arc or you think it's the wire connection in the clear plastic?

    You could try dialectric grease. Auto Value has small tubes
    Which ensures a better connection.

    If the arc is in the white plastic area and the connector is broken a bit in there, this won't fix that.

    Look for a parts diagram based on model # and see what parts they sell. That would indicate if you need to replace the whole part or not.

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    Can you pull the connector off easily with just a tug on the wire? I’ve seen the electrical crimp connector misaligned a few times with ‘male-beside-female’ instead of ‘male-inside-female’, if that makes sense. (I’m sure Ask Leo can clarify.) Happens occasionally with insulated Sta-Kon crimp connections.

    If the broken wire is inside the motor coil I would just replace the inducer motor, not worth the headache dicking with it.
    Last edited by Darell_n; 05-23-2022 at 07:49 PM.

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    I’m just surprised you’re using the old furnace in your new build…. I guess you gotta save where you can with all of these cost escalations!
    I like neat cars.

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    Can’t buy HVAC like old HVAC.

    Anyone and their dog can buy a new furnace. Buying a house just to get the old furnace that actually works at 80% efficiency is the true baller choice.
    Originally posted by Thales of Miletus

    If you think I have been trying to present myself as intellectually superior, then you truly are a dimwit.
    Originally posted by Toma
    fact.
    Quote Originally Posted by Yolobimmer View Post
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    guessing who I might be, psychologizing me with your non existent degree.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darell_n View Post
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    Can you pull the connector off easily with just a tug on the wire? I’ve seen the electrical crimp connector misaligned a few times with ‘male-beside-female’ instead of ‘male-inside-female’, if that makes sense. (I’m sure Ask Leo can clarify.) Happens occasionally with insulated Sta-Kon crimp connections.

    If the broken wire is inside the motor coil I would just replace the inducer motor, not worth the headache dicking with it.
    The arc is happening after the male who identifies as female connector. The black wire with the pink connector is working fine. The arc is revealing itself in the white plastic beyond the connector.

    I'll just find an assembly. Where's the cheapest place in town?

    Quote Originally Posted by 90_Shelby View Post
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    I’m just surprised you’re using the old furnace in your new build…. I guess you gotta save where you can with all of these cost escalations!
    This is at the MIL's place.

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    Quote Originally Posted by benyl View Post
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    The arc is happening after the male who identifies as female connector. The black wire with the pink connector is working fine. The arc is revealing itself in the white plastic beyond the connector.

    I'll just find an assembly. Where's the cheapest place in town?

    This is at the MIL's place.
    I’d check with Soper’s Supply or Amre Supply for cash sales.

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    And we have ignition!

    Thanks Darell

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