If it's 2-lb foam, it is closed cell and thus, also a vapour barrier.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
If it's 2-lb foam, it is closed cell and thus, also a vapour barrier.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
No poly. This is closed cell spray foam, it is a vapor/air barrier in itself and thus does not require any poly. This is the beauty of closed cell foam. My entire house will be sprayed with this, and I won't need poly anywhere. Just spray foam to the substrate and drywall over. This stuff is not cheap...whole house will be roughly $100k just in insulation...but after that you can basically heat the place with a candle.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
You sound like an excited Italian.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Well yesterday was eventful. In the morning I got my delivery of fiberglass rebar, and I was able to complete the far side of the house for hydronics. This only represents like a 1/6th of the floor area (4 out of 18 loops), so a long way to go, but pretty easy with the right tools. The tools include a pex pipe uncoiler ($35 on Kijiji) and a Pex Pipe stapler (fken $400...) + staples to staple the pipe right to the foam. Rebar will go on top. It's a bit backwards to traditional thinking, but my concrete guy says that's the way he does it, as for a 4" slab the location of the heat pipe doesn't really matter, and the pipes act as chairs to prop-up the fiberglass towards the center of the slab. This section of the house is too far away from main manifold, so there is a remote manifold in this area, attached to a temporary floating wall. Once concrete is poured it will be inside of the wall with an access panel in the walk-in closet.
375 pieces of rebar:
Pipes
Tools
Well almost all of hydronics lines under concrete are done now. Just waiting for a shipment of 3/4" PEX to connect the two manifold areas together. I was going to run the connection between the two areas via the attic, but then decided to encase it in concrete, so I didn't have the piping required at the moment. I also early on realized that 1000 foam staples that I ordered wasn't going to be enough for the entire job, so I used them sparingly to ensure I have enough to finish the job, and then come back and add more as needed, hence why some loops look so wavy. It doesn't really matter but more staples are on order as well and I will tidy things up.
Main living area:
Garage
Main master area
Main Manifold are in the utility room. Everything is mounted to a temp floating wall which will get removed once things are incased in concrete. The foam rod around the pipes is to ensure that this room doesn't become a sauna and instead carries the heat to it's intended destination
Some more foam for general location where the fridge will be, and in the back is the pantry. Only the center of the pantry will be heated, with the sides unheated for storage of foods and a deep freezer.
I also started on laying rebar. Unfortunately I can't do it everywhere yet due to the 3/4" pex pipes I still need to lay to connect the remote manifold. Rather do it without having to snake it under the bar. Major pain in the ass....tying it all by hand. Tried using a drill but you can't feel the resistance so often overtighten and snap the wire. By hand it's not too bad, just awkward crawling on the floor.
man you're crushing it, Makes me wish i had a big project on the go... That would be until about halfway through haha
Foam Rod is called insulation though
Yah, you got to take it one day at a time, one issue at a time. If you think of it holistically, you would simply go insane. I know it's insulation haha, just called it that at that moment. Was typing out quickly before having to run. Close enough for people to understand.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
Good progress! Definitely one of the best threads on beyond.
Not sure what gauge wire you're using to tie your rebar in but something like this would help:
https://www.amazon.ca/OTC-4795-Safet...95707256&psc=1
I'm just using a roll of this stuff. $32 for 2500 pieces, and a $6 manual rotating rebar tool. Using straight wire and pliers I think would take a n00b like myself way too long.
how's your back? mine was dead after doing just a garage
13 ties....get up.....stretch like a motherfucker...curse life...and back to it.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
It's brutal.
I'm about 20% done...took all day...I don't even want to think about it..
https://www.rogersrentall.ca/equipme...key=011%2D0100
id do this if i was you
Treat yourself
https://www.makita.ca/index2new.php?event=tool&id=3318
Never mind, just rent it. I didn't realize it was like $2,800 to buyThis quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show QuoteOriginally Posted by SugarphreakThis quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show QuoteThis quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
I was actually going to do just that...but then I realized each roll can only do 115 ties....a 50 box of tie rolls is like $400....and I would still need multiple days to finish, so would have been like $600 by the time it's said and done. At that point I decided to just do it the old fashioned way for under $40, but yah, much harder on the back. A big part of the problem is that rebar, at least this synthetic stuff, is not straight, and has a bow to it, so it makes it a pain in the ass to lay out proper to maintain more or less the gap I require. The part that takes the longest is getting shit aligned properly before you can tie it, but once that's done a tool like that would be a dream...but my initial idea of renting that and getting away with a couple of rolls of tie wire and a day rental went out of the window once I started seeing all the other difficulties involved.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
I would have hired neighbour kids to do them for $0.15 per spent the $400 and sat in a lawn chair the whole time.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
If I hired neighbour kids then I would end up with a job that looks like it was done by a concrete contractor...very poorly and quicklyThis quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
There are two homes being built nearby and I dropped by to take a look....general workmanship on everything that I saw made me so happy I am doing this myself. At least I know it's done property and with quality in mind, vs as fast as possible.
Having done large-ish projects (full basement reno's) myself, the pro's know exactly how quick and dirty to be to get it done fast and not mess up the process for the next guy. They also know what exactly will show and what will be covered by someone elses work. Most do it with quality in mind but its quality of the end result. Like rebar ties for example. You could have trained monkey's do it and the results would be covered by the pour and not effect the output of a quality slab.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
I am exactly like you with the projects but i feel its mostly that i don't know where i can actually be sloppy without it effecting the results.
Seeing this gives me ptsd from my cribbing days!!!This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
"if you disagree with my views are cannot adequately my criticism then ignore my posts." - Nusc
Haha I did a summer of gravel slinging work (weeping tiles, basements), and did enough of this for a lifetime in that four months.This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote