Battery Tender recommendations

[The_Penguin]

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You have to change your brake fluid when too much moisture builds up in it, not based on a certain timeline. It's really easy to test it to figure out how much moisture is there, but most techs/service advisors just recommend you change it every two years because it's easy money for them, an easy sale, and 99% of people don't know/care enough to debate it.

I don't recall it ever being an issue on older cars. Is ABS a factor in this?

[Flexray]

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I don't recall it ever being an issue on older cars. Is ABS a factor in this?

Brakes on old cars are terrible, everything leaked from poor seal technology.

It's not just ABS, it's also ADAS systems. The brake fluid goes through a hydraulic module with computer-controlled valves and pressure sensors that direct the fluid to where it needs to be. These valves are very close tolerance and will score and stick if debris goes through them.
Advanced driver assistance systems use the brakes for lane keep assist, adaptive cruise control, and emergency stop. The brake fluid viscosity affects how long it takes for the wheels to start decelerating once brake pressure is applied. This amount of time is factored into stop-distance calculations that ADAS modules do. Having old/incorrect fluid can change how long it takes to stop the vehicle. Apparently, a bunch of new low-viscosity brake fluids are coming out to help speed up brake functions. There is very little easy money left in vehicle maintenance.

[DonJuan]

Adding brake fluid change to list for spring... First time for everything.

[ThePenIsMightier]

I squeeze it all out every time I change pads. (Which is still nowhere near often enough, likely).

Racing or AutoX would certainly get more frequent

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

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I squeeze it all out every time I change pads. (Which is still nowhere near often enough, likely).

Racing or AutoX would certainly get more frequent

Depending on the vehicle every track day to every year for track use I find.

[alex9119]

I have noco Genius 5's one each for my supra and type r. the supra runs 24/7 no issues what so ever

[Darkane]

Brakes break?

[OU812]

I ended up getting the Noco Genius 2. We will see how it goes.

[71/454]

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I ended up getting the Noco Genius 2. We will see how it goes.

I’ve worked on some European equipment that was meant to sit outside in freezing temps plugged in and they used battery tenders, mostly c-tek brand. I think that if the battery will be subjected to freezing temps it’s important that the tender/maintainer is sized appropriately. If it’s going to live inside a small one is fine.

[mr2mike]

This exists. Not sure how to order one.

[ThePenIsMightier]

^Sweet, get one. 240V at 50Hz shouldn't be no thang.

[ExtraSlow]

I like that it's a thing.

[mr2mike]

Nothing a transformer can't handle.

[ThePenIsMightier]

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Nothing a transformer can't handle.

[Neil4Speed]

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I don't recall it ever being an issue on older cars. Is ABS a factor in this?

Porsche has been recommending every two years on the Cayenne, which seems like overkill, but I essentially bend over to keep warranty intact.

[The_Penguin]

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Porsche has been recommending every two years on the Cayenne, which seems like overkill, but I essentially bend over to keep warranty intact.

Thanks, all. Guess I'll pay closer attention to it.

[killramos]

Anyone know of any Noco Boost type products that work on 6V batteries?

Not a tender, those are easy enough to find. But a booster.

[ExtraSlow]

I'd want to look closely at this to make sure it's "really" 6V, but, napa website shows one. https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/MBC85924

[killramos]

Thx

[Kloubek]

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The Noco is ok. I have a CTEK that does the job well.

General comments:
1. Under no circumstance should you start the car and run it for a few mins. Or even 30 mins. Don't start the car unless you intend to take it for a drive. Starting, idling, then shutting it off is bad and doesn't help in any way.
2. Plug it in and leave it all winter if you want. That's the whole point of getting a tender/smart charger. Wiring up some connectors with a plug on the end is a great idea.

I have a CTEK as well, and it's been fantastic. As for your comments, I'm glad you made comment #1 especially. The biggest draw on your battery is during start, so by starting it, you actually immediately drain it. I do think running it for a while DOES help, but Bjstate is right in that only by driving it and getting the RPMs up there does it do a good job of charging.
I also agree with his second comment, whereby the purpose of a "smart" tender is that it will shut off and only activate when required. I leave my CTEK hooked up to my Jag all winter without issue.