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Thread: Furnace replacement recommendations

  1. #61
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    Yeah, I live with three females, that's why I take showers at the gym.

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    Quote Originally Posted by suntan View Post
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    Yeah, I live with three females, that's why I take showers at the gym.
    Jack Tripper up in here in the house.
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    I say stupid shit all the time.
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    "Look at my small penis everyone,"


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    I love my Navian tankless, can have 2 showers and be filling the bathtub at the same time. No issues but I'm only on year 2 now.

    So is there no possible way to get a replacement mid efficiently heat exchanger?
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    Quote Originally Posted by g-m View Post
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    I love my Navian tankless, can have 2 showers and be filling the bathtub at the same time. No issues but I'm only on year 2 now.

    So is there no possible way to get a replacement mid efficiently heat exchanger?
    Buy used. Stock ran out on them 20 years ago.

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    Quote Originally Posted by g-m View Post
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    So is there no possible way to get a replacement mid efficiently heat exchanger?
    You can, but nobody stocks it so it's a long wait, and it costs almost as much as a new high efficiency furnace. It's quite the racket.
    Originally posted by SEANBANERJEE
    I have gone above and beyond what I should rightfully have to do to protect my good name

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    Quote Originally Posted by g-m View Post
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    So is there no possible way to get a replacement mid efficiently heat exchanger?
    Depends on the model. For my Carrier, to get a heat exchanger cell is $150-330 USD. My furnace takes four cells, so I'd be creeping up near the price of a new furnace.

    Some models have cells that cost $50, others you can't buy for love or money. It's a bit of a crap shoot.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BerserkerCatSplat View Post
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    so I'd be creeping up near the price of a new furnace.
    But you'd be set for another 30+ years, unlike a high efficiency.
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    Came back to ogle 2Legit2Quit wife's buns...
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    They're certainly big, but I don't know if they are the BEST I've tasted.

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    We need a 3d metal printer.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tik-Tok View Post
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    But you'd be set for another 30+ years, unlike a high efficiency.
    And I assure you that's the primary reason I'm looking at doing the exchangers and upgrading to an ECM motor. Keep this thing ticking as long as possible.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BerserkerCatSplat View Post
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    And I assure you that's the primary reason I'm looking at doing the exchangers and upgrading to an ECM motor. Keep this thing ticking as long as possible.
    Will the control board last that long, and will you be able to find a replacement? Those boards are like high school electronics class etched boards, so troubleshooting shouldn't be too bad. But that's another dice roll there. What if that unlabelled IC goes bad? That was my question peeking at the guts of my furnace before I said fuck it and went new furnace. The yearly issues with the new unit is fucking annoying tho so there's a bit of regret not taking a chance!
    Originally posted by SEANBANERJEE
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    Yeah, that's the question isn't it? Could spend a bunch making it like new only to have the electronics shit the bed. Ugh.

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    Quote Originally Posted by benyl View Post
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    Can you even get it in Calgary? I was looking to do it, but in early 2021, it wasn't available.
    Quote Originally Posted by ExtraSlow View Post
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    Don't those systems use electric heat to melt the ice off the coils? Seems wildly inefficient in cold weather.
    I've installed the ductless hyper-heats and quoted some zuba stuff and have never been told it's not available. It's bigger dollar stuff so some of it may have to be brought in.

    The defrost method is reverse cycle.

    Interestingly a Samsung I installed a year ago that's rated down to -25c was doing pretty good at -30 the other day. The customer thought it wasn't working, but they weren't giving it enough time to preheat the indoor coil before the fan would operate. Because it had no fan after 30 seconds they thought it was dead, but the mini splits likes to avoid blowing cold drafty air so it it takes a bit for the fan to come on.

    Some of the high efficiency brands have 20 year heat exchanger but they get into pretty ratty condition quickly when the condensate leaks through the furnace for a short amount of time because it's so acidic. Some of these stepper motor gas valves off warranty are just silly in price, sometimes a double hit when they have upgraded the gas valve and it requires a new board with it.
    Too loud for Aspen

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    Quote Originally Posted by BerserkerCatSplat View Post
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    How do you usually find out your exchanger is cracked? I really don't want to replace our mid-efficiency but it's a model known for exchanger cracking issues.
    Here's an easy test. Maybe not conclusive, but a fairly good indicator:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WABAnzUthAg

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    I’ve worked on a few WaterFurnace ground source heat pumps in the past that will operate at any temperature, provided the fish pond is deep enough to not freeze solid in the winter. I hated them 20 years ago, but their complexity is a lot more palatable these days and it’s likely they’ve made vast improvements since then.

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    I thought the key indicator of a cracked HX was dying of CO poisoning.

    More of a lagging indicator, I suppose...

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    Quote Originally Posted by The_Penguin View Post
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    Here's an easy test. Maybe not conclusive, but a fairly good indicator:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WABAnzUthAg
    Good tip, thanks! I've already checked for flame rollout and didn't notice anything obvious but the match test should be more sensitive.



    Quote Originally Posted by ThePenIsMightier View Post
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    I thought the key indicator of a cracked HX was dying of CO poisoning.

    More of a lagging indicator, I suppose...
    Realistically, that's more or less a myth. Think about the candle test linked above - it works because when the blower is running, it blows air into the exchanger, not the other way around. And when the burners are running, so is the venter motor - which puts the exchanger under negative pressure to draw the flame in from the burner and the exhaust gases out the flue. There's really not many realistic ways to get combustion products out of the exchanger and into the air stream.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BerserkerCatSplat View Post
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    Good tip, thanks! I've already checked for flame rollout and didn't notice anything obvious but the match test should be more sensitive.





    Realistically, that's more or less a myth. Think about the candle test linked above - it works because when the blower is running, it blows air into the exchanger, not the other way around. And when the burners are running, so is the venter motor - which puts the exchanger under negative pressure to draw the flame in from the burner and the exhaust gases out the flue. There's really not many realistic ways to get combustion products out of the exchanger and into the air stream.
    Good!
    I hadn't clicked the candle link test but I figured there must be more safety involved.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darell_n View Post
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    I’ve worked on a few WaterFurnace ground source heat pumps in the past that will operate at any temperature, provided the fish pond is deep enough to not freeze solid in the winter. I hated them 20 years ago, but their complexity is a lot more palatable these days and it’s likely they’ve made vast improvements since then.
    Now they have a fancy app to tell you it's fucked.
    Too loud for Aspen

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    Quote Originally Posted by BerserkerCatSplat View Post
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    How do you usually find out your exchanger is cracked? I really don't want to replace our mid-efficiency but it's a model known for exchanger cracking issues.
    for me it was the duct cleaning service where they include opening up and inspecting the furnace.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverRex View Post
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    for me it was the duct cleaning service where they include opening up and inspecting the furnace.
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    Last edited by ThePenIsMightier; 12-08-2022 at 08:36 AM.

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