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Thread: 2010 Mazda 3 BCM Reprogramming

  1. #1
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    Default 2010 Mazda 3 BCM Reprogramming

    Anyone on here a Mazda fanboi and have the software to reprogram the BCM?
    Looking into replacing one for someone but won't be of any benefit if I can't get it reprogrammed for the vehicle.

    2010 Mazda 3

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    Can you communicate with the bcm? if you can, you save the configuration onto the scan tool and paste it into the new module. You still may have to do a perimeter rest, security relearn, and relearn all of the keys. you may be able to do this with a autel, snap-on, etc but I'm not sure on that. If you cannot communicate with the module you are going to have to program it from as-built data with the IDS/VCM and a Mazda subscription.
    I would be very cautious of trying this with Chinese ripped-off software. They take the original factory software, shut a bunch of things off and change random things so it doesn't try to communicate with Mazda's servers. It leaves big holes in what the tool can do. There is a possibility you can brick the new module or get halfway through a procedure and it errors out, then you are towing it to the dealer.

    https://www.mazdaserviceinfo.com/ids-software

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    I can communicate with it (I assume).
    Doors don't lock. Switch or key fob.
    Signs point to BCM but I'm having to check the switches aren't the reason or a busted wire first.

    Reasoning with myself that if it's the BCM, do I try to replace it?
    If I do, I can't program it. I'm not into mazda and it will be a one off. So from a software side cost, setup, learning, I'm out.

    Was hoping someone here had the software at home and could just do it. Doubtful a dealer is going to reduce the fix cost if the new BCM is installed and not programmed.

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    If the vehicle has advanced keyless entry, the keyless control module and body control modules control the locks. Without advanced keyless, the body control module is responsible for the locks. Without a scan tool, this is going to be hard to diagnose. Seeing the locks don't work from the fob or the switch, something may be blocking the door locks from actuating. You are going to have to go into the door lock data and see if the module is receiving/commanding the locks, you will also be able to see the lock switch and fob inputs. Performing a full vehicle trouble code scan may also point you in the right direction.

    Door harness wires like to break at the pinch points in the door jambs if you're looking for broken wires.

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    Good advice.
    Keyless only.
    Doubtful my code reader can access the BCM stuff.
    Really looking like I'll do the basic continuity checks and door switch checks to confirm its the BCM. Then send them to dealers for the BCM replacement.
    If a door switch or broken wire, etc I'll handle it.

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    There is also a TSB for water intrusion/corrosion in the door handle wiring connectors.

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    Looked for it. I think I found it but seemed to be CX-5's mostly on the rear hatch. But possibly the wrong tsb.
    This is a 2010 Mazda3.

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    TSB 09-047/10

    The TSB is for vehicles with the advanced keyless, so not applicable.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Flexray View Post
    This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
    TSB 09-047/10

    The TSB is for vehicles with the advanced keyless, so not applicable.
    Nope but thanks for trying.
    I hate electrical issues on vehicles unless it's a sensor change.

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    These are some tests that you can do with a basic multimeter. Get a door lock wiring diagram. Check the door lock fuse, it should be 25 amps. Fuses don't just fail, something has drawn too much amperage and blown it. If the fuse is blown, I would start with checking all of the door and trunk harness pinch points. The wires will work harden and break causing them to short together blowing the fuse. A shorted door lock actuator can also blow the fuse.
    If the fuse is good, remove the left front door panel. Access the door lock actuator. Back probe one of the motor wires and hit the lock button, the voltage should go from 12 to 0 or 0 to 12. The BCM supplies power and ground. If there is no change, back probe the same wire but at the BCM and do the same test. If there is still no change, the BCM is not commanding the lock. If you cannot talk to the BCM to find out why it is not moving the lock, the most logical thing is to check all of the door switch inputs. If the BCM thinks a door is open it may not lock. One by one, back probe each door switch circuit. Open and close the door to see if you get a voltage change on the circuit.

    When I say back probe, use something like this:
    https://shop.snapon.com/product/Back...bes/MTTL7005PK
    Don't ram the multimeter probe into the terminal, you will damage it. Molested terminals, or loose terminal tension is something I see regularly.

    Hope this helps!

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