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Thread: Brake line leak

  1. #1
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    Default Brake line leak

    So if my rear brakes are seized and I hammer the pedal. Where does that pressure go? Will I burst a stainless line? How does it work.
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    You have more braking than horsepower and less traction than either. So you'll drag your tires if it's fwd... Or spin your fronts.

    If it's a stick you will burn your clutch or stall and if it's auto your transmission will slip into it overheats.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SJW View Post
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    So if my rear brakes are seized and I hammer the pedal. Where does that pressure go? Will I burst a stainless line? How does it work.
    If that was the case you’d have failure every time you pushed hard enough to lock up or trigger abs on a functional system

    Your pedal will just get “hard” (ha!) faster with your front brakes having less modulation (if seized “open”). If your rear brakes are seized “closed” then what Buster is saying would be of concern

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    Ok this is on my Suzuki that’s been sitting for years. I imagine the brakes are seized and I hammered on the brakes while parked. If those pads don’t move then that pressure has to go somewhere. So does it burst a line? This is A 1988 so no fancy anything.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJW View Post
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    Ok this is on my Suzuki that’s been sitting for years. I imagine the brakes are seized and I hammered on the brakes while parked. If those pads don’t move then that pressure has to go somewhere. So does it burst a line? This is A 1988 so no fancy anything.
    The pressure doesn't "go" anywhere. It's contained in the system which prolly can handle about 1.5x the maximum pressure the system will ever possibly see.

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    The pressure will continue to increase until the brake pedal assembly or master cylinder push rod bends. Or the pressure finds and ruptures a corroded portion of a brake line, fluid will spray out and the brake pedal will drop to the floor. If a line ruptures, the vehicle will have no brakes.

    If the vehicle has been parked for years, the pads have most likely rusted to the rotors/drums. They will thump and pulsate like mf. Most of the time the rust doesn't come out and parts need to be replaced.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ThePenIsMightier View Post
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    The pressure doesn't "go" anywhere. It's contained in the system which prolly can handle about 1.5x the maximum pressure the system will ever possibly see.
    So it’s probably just pitted and corroded after sitting in a swamp.

    Probably not to hard to cut and run steel line I’m guessing.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJW View Post
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    So it’s probably just pitted and corroded after sitting in a swamp.

    Probably not to hard to cut and run steel line I’m guessing.
    lol just measure it and get green line to make them.


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    I'm sorry, I feel like I'm missing something.
    If this thing has rear drums, chances are the parking brake got left on for months/years and the brakes are corroded at [on] in the rear. The hydraulic portion of your breaking system is unaffected.
    If it has discs, there is a seized caliper somewhere. The hydraulic system just "sees" a blockage that it can't break loose. Giving it some stomps and or ABS pulses might break it loose, but it's still fuck.
    Remove and replace.

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    So if you are hitting the brakes and the pedal is still compressing fully, then either you have air in the system or a leak… but if everything was healthy and you had a seized brake, no, you didn’t cause damage

    If it was sitting in a swamp, probably just replace it all, if you’re putting the coin into a brand new body, I’d say it’s worth while as the fluid is hydroscopic and you will have corrosion and breakdown of rubber components either way… and a future failure with your kid behind the wheel is not great

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    New master cylinder, calipers, drums, shoes, pads, and if any fittings on the lines breaknwhen you are dissasmbling, then new lines too.

    Rock auto that whole parts list.
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    You realize you are talking to the guy who made his own furniture out of salad bowls right?

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    I was changing the diff oil in the rear and noticed it was covered in oil. But it couldn’t have been diff oil. Above it is a steel brake line. Tomorrow I’ll get my son to pump the brakes while I see. The pedal is still firm.
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    Quote Originally Posted by JfuckinC View Post
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    lol just measure it and get green line to make them.


    Trust meeee.
    Can I just bring them the old line? Has custom bends n shit.
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    "Look at my small penis everyone,"


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    Quote Originally Posted by SJW View Post
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    Can I just bring them the old line? Has custom bends n shit.
    Bending is easy, you can borrow the tool if you decide to. I’m not sure if they bend lines as well, But I would be surprised if they didn’t. I just got some made to length and bent them myself.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SJW View Post
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    Can I just bring them the old line? Has custom bends n shit.
    Brake lines are stupid easy to make and do yourself.

    The line is cheap and a flare tool is like $50 or less.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JfuckinC View Post
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    Bending is easy, you can borrow the tool if you decide to. I’m not sure if they bend lines as well, But I would be surprised if they didn’t. I just got some made to length and bent them myself.
    Ok I’ll confirm the leak is actually there then take you up on the borrow.
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    Probably tough to see a leak, but definitely could be sweating through.

    I'd get a rough measure on the line and buy it. Then bend while installing.
    Flaring then ends isn't tough. Just remember the fitting in the line first before flaring.

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    Quote Originally Posted by firebane View Post
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    Brake lines are stupid easy to make and do yourself.

    The line is cheap and a flare tool is like $50 or less.
    lol I tried a couple times, I think I had some shit SS tube from Amazon so it didn’t seat well. Green lines worked first try.



    I have all the tools if you wanna tackle it yourself SJW. But your office is also 2 minutes from green line and it’s cheap, I’d go that route.

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    You can buy a pre-flared chunk and bend it to whatever you need. If you can find it with the wire round rock guard on it, the rock guard doubles as a coil tubing bender and you can just shape it by hand. You can make loops in it using a cylinder to take up the excess length to remove the need for flaring it.
    Too loud for Aspen

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    Ok so I went with my son today to test brakes and all that oil evaporated. Turns out he sprayed the diff plugs with pb blaster. Brakes work. Yes that’s my 13yr old driving stick for the first time.

    https://imgur.com/a/TinnBVX


    I’m ordering the alum body Tuesday. Next step is fox the Speedo and do all the brakes. I may switch the back from drums to disc.

    4x4 works in high and low.
    Last edited by SJW; 02-18-2023 at 06:33 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by JRSC00LUDE View Post
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    I say stupid shit all the time.
    Quote Originally Posted by Yolobimmer View Post
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    "Look at my small penis everyone,"


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