Mounting Privacy screen on raised concrete deck

[benyl]

So I have this dilemma.

Want to add a screen and need to mount 2 posts like attached photo. Posts would be 6ft high above the deck surface. Deck is 2' off the ground so I would use an 8' post.

The thought I had was to use concrete anchors and bolt it to the side so that it has some lever strength for chinook type winds. But I can only find anchors that leave maybe 1/2" - 1" of thread which is not enough to bolt a 4X4 post. Or is it?

Do I just ignore the instructions and mount the anchor less deep to give me more slack? Seems suspect.



The other though is I could mount it on the deck surface with and adjustable post base:



Another idea would be to mount the post base horizontal and then attach the post in to the post base that way on the side of the deck.

thoughts?

[lilmira]

or get some galv. steel angles?

[jwslam]

Why not go into the ground?
And then do the tie-in into the concrete horizontally for extra stability.

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/sim...4x4/1001400316

[Tik-Tok]

Dig down. Use 12' posts. Concrete them in like fence posts. Strap them to the concrete for extra strength.

[bjstare]

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Dig down. Use 12' posts. Concrete them in like fence posts. Strap them to the concrete for extra strength.

This

[Thaco]

expansion wedge anchors

[ThePenIsMightier]

Countersink hilti-bolts by about 1.5" into the 4x4 posts to let them bite into the concrete more.

Digging them (the posts) in and tying into the structure is getting into the "put them on screw piles and footings" territory.

[sxtasy]

Do you know the thickness of the concrete wall? Most wedge anchors will not be long enough for this application. You can use redi rod/washer/nut for this application and anchor them in using two part epoxy anchoring adhesive (ie. hilti hit, Simpson makes a good epoxy). Follow the epoxy manufacturers directions for hole size and cleaning method. I have used this for installing engineered glass railings on concrete decks.

Figure 4" for concrete embedment, 4" post thickness, 1" for washer/nut. So 9" redi rod, or make them longer and cut the excess off after. 2 bolts, top and bottom for each post. Top hole should be at least 3" below top of concrete so you don't blow the top out when drilling.

Edit: the countersink suggestion is a good idea too

[arcticcat522]

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Do you know the thickness of the concrete wall? Most wedge anchors will not be long enough for this application. You can use redi rod/washer/nut for this application and anchor them in using two part epoxy anchoring adhesive (ie. hilti hit, Simpson makes a good epoxy). Follow the epoxy manufacturers directions for hole size and cleaning method. I have used this for installing engineered glass railings on concrete decks.

Figure 4" for concrete embedment, 4" post thickness, 1" for washer/nut. So 9" redi rod, or make them longer and cut the excess off after. 2 bolts, top and bottom for each post. Top hole should be at least 3" below top of concrete so you don't blow the top out when drilling.

Edit: the countersink suggestion is a good idea too

This

[benyl]

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Do you know the thickness of the concrete wall? Most wedge anchors will not be long enough for this application. You can use redi rod/washer/nut for this application and anchor them in using two part epoxy anchoring adhesive (ie. hilti hit, Simpson makes a good epoxy). Follow the epoxy manufacturers directions for hole size and cleaning method. I have used this for installing engineered glass railings on concrete decks.

Figure 4" for concrete embedment, 4" post thickness, 1" for washer/nut. So 9" redi rod, or make them longer and cut the excess off after. 2 bolts, top and bottom for each post. Top hole should be at least 3" below top of concrete so you don't blow the top out when drilling.

Edit: the countersink suggestion is a good idea too

Perfect, this is what I was looking for.

[ExtraSlow]

Am I the only person who thinks it's far simpler to have them sitting in anchors on the TOP of the patio?

[Tik-Tok]

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Am I the only person who thinks it's far simpler to have them sitting in anchors on the TOP of the patio?

Simpler for sure, but won't last as long, especially if he's in a windy area. I tend to overbuild things though. Most times it's paid out to do so.

[benyl]

yeah, that's my worry. If it was a 3ft railing, I would be less worried. But since it is 6' high and basically a sail, the torque on the mount is even greater. I am sure some engineer could do the math.

[suntan]

Since when do 'geers do math.

[sxtasy]

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Perfect, this is what I was looking for.

Don't overtighten the nuts when installing, you could break the bond on the epoxy if you are really cranking it down. Just snug it up, you could use a locking washer. Countersinking it slightly in the wood does look better, just use a spade bit same diameter as the washer.

[schurchill39]

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Since when do 'geers do math.

We don't, we only send emails. The most math we do is the =sum() function on excel

[mr2mike]

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Am I the only person who thinks it's far simpler to have them sitting in anchors on the TOP of the patio?

Another reason is you'll probably get gross staining on the concrete surface over time from the metals. On the side, the water hopefully drains and dries.

But also with the leverage, the wind will loosen off and probably shear the bolts going in perpendicularly to the wind forces.

[mr2mike]

Consider something like this which allows adjustments.

Super windy, it could be opened to allow flow.

https://www.amazon.ca/Flex-Fence-Dec...68885926&psc=1

[Tik-Tok]

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Consider something like this which allows adjustments.

Super windy, it could be opened to allow flow.

https://www.amazon.ca/Flex-Fence-Dec...68885926&psc=1

I've got the same along my entire west fence, and it's awesome. They get loose over a summer, so I put in a wooden dowel system to set them where I want them. The wind pushes them closed, so if you want to alleviate the wind pressure, you have to do something like I did to hold it open.