Tire rotation when you bring them in.

[ExtraSlow]

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Always rear, even if it's FWD.

lack of traction to get going > losing traction in the rear at speed.

Plus you most car has most of the weight in the front anyway.

Interesting, I always figured best treads on steer axle. I mean, I DGAF anymore, but if someone asked my opinion that's what I would have said.

[tirebob]

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Interesting, I always figured best treads on steer axle. I mean, I DGAF anymore, but if someone asked my opinion that's what I would have said.

The bigger worry that gets drivers into trouble is oversteer, mostly during hydroplaning. We did testing on a control track in cars with new on front and half tread on rear and cars with new on rear and half tread in front. Basically it was a giant circle with water pumped evenly across the track at a single point. Every single person spun out uncontrollably with the half worn on the back, yet on the car with the new on back, the car would push a bit but the drivers stayed in control.

Michelin did a video on the effect years ago. It is totally dated looking but illustrates the point...

https://youtu.be/tUW6KmvhyjU?si=0Tj25fUKK2W-mP9q

Now this said, that is more about new with half worn tires and not normal positioning based on regular rotations. If you stay on top of your rotations properly, two tires will realistically never be more than a 32nd or two more worn than the others, so best on front or rear is really no issue as much as helping control crappy wear. Rotating them regularly is more about getting the tires off the steering (and often fwd traction) and giving them a break since those tires will wear unevenly faster than rear tires since they scrub constantly under steering etc.

[ExtraSlow]

Good data, I had no idea.
I don't turn in winter anyway, so the point is moot for myself.

[Swank]

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I don't turn in winter anyway, so the point is moot for myself.

Sounds like Rainbow Bridge talk right there.

[Xtrema]

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Now this said, that is more about new with half worn tires and not normal positioning based on regular rotations. If you stay on top of your rotations properly, two tires will realistically never be more than a 32nd or two more worn than the others, so best on front or rear is really no issue as much as helping control crappy wear. Rotating them regularly is more about getting the tires off the steering (and often fwd traction) and giving them a break since those tires will wear unevenly faster than rear tires since they scrub constantly under steering etc.

Forgot to mention this point by Bob. I only got into that habit when replacing a pair on non-repairable puncture. Set up is square, new pair goes to the back. Set up is stagger, yolo.

EDIT: Exactly repeating what Bob's video said.

[Flexray]

This is always a big debate in the shop. I find most of the younger crowd puts the best on the rear. All of the old guys put the best on the driving wheels, then go on a big rant about how no one knows how to drive anymore.

I will take the location markings into consideration, but have seen right side directional tires marked as left, or you get two LF wheels somehow. Tread cupping takes precedents over depth. I will always put cupped tires on the rear to help smooth them out. Cupped tires are also noisy so this helps out with the "ever since you" complaints and extends the life of the tires. Staggered, directional definitely hurts tire life.