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Thread: wheel spacers, how thick untill i need new wheel studs

  1. #1
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    Question wheel spacers, how thick untill i need new wheel studs

    so i picked up a set of fiero rims with intentions of using them on my spirit so i could use 245's up front and 225's out back. the fronts (backs for the fiero) are 15 X 7, the rears (fronts for the fiero) are 15 X 6.

    both will fit on the back, but rub on the front callipers because i went with the daytona 11" vented brakes. i went and picked up some skinny wheel spacers (2-3mm) and tested them on a spare spindel/calliper assembally i have and they did clear (it was close though).

    ARP makes wheel studs that are significantly longer and stronger, plus they are pretty cheap at 13 bucks a wheel (i only need these for the fronts), but they aren't made for my car so drilling, cutting, etc. is required and i might not be able to use wheel studs unless i cut them down (i'll probably have to anyways, they are 2 inches longer than stock).

    my question is, do i need to go with the arp studs. or is 2-3mm nothing to worry about? this car will see track use and probably slicks, and it will be a high torque application (trying for over 300 to the wheels).

    any input would be appreciated.
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    It depends on how much thread goes in the hub before and after spacers...check with tirecraft or tunerworks...

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    I'm not aware of what a FWD spirit has for a suspension setup, although couldn't you take off your hub and pound/press the new studs in?

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    Originally posted by 4CylFiero
    I'm not aware of what a FWD spirit has for a suspension setup, although couldn't you take off your hub and pound/press the new studs in?
    yes the hub assembally is bolted in so getting it out wouldn't be a big issue, but arp doesn't make a set of studs for the turbo dodges to the best of my knowledge, so modification of the hub might be required
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    Optimally you should get at least about 6 full turns, anything under that is like walking on thin ice...

    but 3-5mm spacers should be ok, we carry a variety of spacers/wheel hardware In-Stock so come by if you need anything and we can help you out!

    Thanks,
    Bobby

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    okay, checked it oput a little further, apperantly arp's for late model GM's will work on my car (PN 1007720) but i have to go to an inperial style thread instead of standard.

    hopefully after i install the brakes tommorow i'll be able to tell if i need the studs or not.
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    If they are stock studs, you should have about 10 rows of threads (maybe more, depends on the car) inside the lug nut when properly tightened. Adding a 2-3mm spacer will reduce it by maybe 1 or 2 rows of threads. If that is all you are adding, I would not worry, the rule of thumb is 6-7 rows of threads inside the lug nut.

    The easiest way to tell is, tighten (snug, not properly torqued) all but 1 lug nut, then tighten the last one by hand. You should get 5-6 full turns. And usually 1-2 more with a torque wrench (if your studs are clean, you may get all but the last 1/2 - 1/4 turn by hand).

    That is the rule I have used, and have never run into problems. Although, I would appreciate knowing if this method is not safe.
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    Originally posted by WBB6
    Optimally you should get at least about 6 full turns, anything under that is like walking on thin ice...

    but 3-5mm spacers should be ok, we carry a variety of spacers/wheel hardware In-Stock so come by if you need anything and we can help you out!

    Thanks,
    Bobby
    concept 1 told me it has to be 7 threads and up

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    Adam Adam Adam, get the car running first, then play with that stuff!!!!

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