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Thread: Where to put ground wires on DIY ground-wires?

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    Question Where to put ground wires on DIY ground-wires?

    yea ok, i know the gain from upgraded ground wires is debatable, but cmon i got a bunch of wire and connectors for $5.

    ive got a couple questions for the electrician-wannabes here:

    1. i got 10gauge wire and a bunch of crimpey ring connectors (not gold plated), good enough?

    2. what should be grounded? im planning to run a ground from the block to the battery and ive already got 4 gauge going from the chassis to the battery. as far as i can tell, its pointless to ground anything else cuz everything important is touching the block somehow. am i missing anything?

    thanks yall

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    This is from a post that cycloneAWD made a while back from a dsm site. Here are the points the site lists:
    Procedure:


    1 Battery to firewall.
    2 Battery to R strut.
    3 Battery to throttle body.
    4 Throttle body to head.
    5 Head to exhaust.
    6 Battery to L strut.
    7 L strut to alternator.
    8 L strut to distributor.

    Hopefully thats wut ur lookin for..

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    Originally posted by M_Power
    This is from a post that cycloneAWD made a while back from a dsm site. Here are the points the site lists:
    Procedure:


    1 Battery to firewall.
    2 Battery to R strut.
    3 Battery to throttle body.
    4 Throttle body to head.
    5 Head to exhaust.
    6 Battery to L strut.
    7 L strut to alternator.
    8 L strut to distributor.

    Hopefully thats wut ur lookin for..
    actually kinda. i already did a search before i put up this thread. see the problem i have with arifs advice there is that 1,2,6 are all just battery-chassis grounds, and 3,4,5 are all engine-chassis grounds.

    what i dont get is, why bother grounding the chassis at mutliple points? isnt 1 good ground enough? and why bother grounding the engine in several locations? the whole the whole thing is metal and connected by metal, so grounding 1 part grounds the entire thing...right?

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    Why not just the areas where the factory grounds are?
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    yeah just look for factory grounds and replace them..
    "A nation can survive its fools, and even the ambitious. But it cannot survive treason from within. An enemy at the gates is less formidable, for he is known and carries his banner openly. But the traitor moves amongst those within the gate freely, his sly whispers rustling through all the alleys, heard in the very halls of government itself. For the traitor appears not a traitor; he speaks in accents familiar to his victims, and he wears their face and their arguments, he appeals to the baseness that lies deep in the hearts of all men. He rots the soul of a nation, he works secretly and unknown in the night to undermine the pillars of the city, he infects the body politic so that it can no longer resist. A murderer is less to fear. The traitor is the plague.”
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    Originally posted by Redlyne_mr2
    Why not just the areas where the factory grounds are?
    im pretty sure im missing a couple factory ones haha

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    Jeff, I cannot believe you have a problem with my advice...for shame...


    I think the thinking behind the multiple grounding points is to give the electricty something its gonna do anyway..."take the path of least resistance at that point in time"...After talking to a few Local DSMer's who have done it, some actually expirimented with only the factory locations for the chassis grounds, one did the one big good ground and the last did the kit the way I posted earlier...

    the 2 with the multiple grounds...i.e. the DSM "kit" and factory grounds noticed results, where the one big ground guy had the same issues as before and when replacing all the factory grounds, his idle smoothed out, stereo was cleaner, lights brighter, and general electrical was imporved...so just do the factory ground replacement...that is what i am gonna end up doing...

    let me know if you need wires made...as I have a whole crapload of 4 guage setero power wire I am rigging up in the next week or so...and I will be in Ed for VUB in July...so I can bring it up then...
    ...@therealarifjina...

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    yeah 10gauge seems too thin to me. i used 4gauge.
    "A nation can survive its fools, and even the ambitious. But it cannot survive treason from within. An enemy at the gates is less formidable, for he is known and carries his banner openly. But the traitor moves amongst those within the gate freely, his sly whispers rustling through all the alleys, heard in the very halls of government itself. For the traitor appears not a traitor; he speaks in accents familiar to his victims, and he wears their face and their arguments, he appeals to the baseness that lies deep in the hearts of all men. He rots the soul of a nation, he works secretly and unknown in the night to undermine the pillars of the city, he infects the body politic so that it can no longer resist. A murderer is less to fear. The traitor is the plague.”
    —Cicero, Roman statesman and lawyer

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    If your car is perfectly grounded, a kit does nothing. But most are not.

    Anyways without getting into the whole debate, I did a chain from passenger chasis, to intake manifold to battery ground. One from battery ground to transmission, and another from battery ground to driver chasis. Finally, one from my coil pack area to the manifold.

    And for car power usage, 8 gauge is more than plenty so 10 should be fine. 4 is overkill but with something so minor it doesn't matter as long as you get the wire cheap and get one with a high thread count.

    I have a video of all the points before/after impedence readings and it does make a difference. Whether a normal person would notice is debatable but many have seen MPG increases.

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    Original Post Removed. (Please read the Forum Rules and Terms of Use before posting again, or risk getting banned).

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    my english is bad, i'm totally confuse now. although i plan to set it up for my TEG. i hope there is better throttle response and make the light brighter.

    CycloneAWD. if u don't mind i can get your wires off your hand if u've extra but u gotta teach me how to hook it up. thx
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    Originally posted by bighead2267
    my english is bad, i'm totally confuse now. although i plan to set it up for my TEG. i hope there is better throttle response and make the light brighter.

    CycloneAWD. if u don't mind i can get your wires off your hand if u've extra but u gotta teach me how to hook it up. thx

    I don't mind...as soon as I do a new set, I will PM you...
    ...@therealarifjina...

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    the way i see it is that the massive 4 guage main ground to the chassis is cool, no need to be grounding the chassis too much more, now the engine could use a direct ground from the battery. I believe that running one to the head or intake or something will make the most difference as opposed to any other grounds a person runs.

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    is there any website shows more in detail?
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    Originally posted by bighead2267
    is there any website shows more in detail?

    Like I posted way back in tha day...this is fro DSM's but can be modded for any vehicle I figure...Ground Wires
    ...@therealarifjina...

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    thank you brah
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    Just replacing your stock grounds with larger wire will do absolutly nothing....


    believe it or not, there is electrical theory behind those hyper ground wires. i got into a long discusion about this on another board.


    read this link, makes alot of sense...


    http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/hyperground/

    i know this isnt the actual website, but thats a small piece of info on them..

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    as the link mention. we can only get the copper wires should be fine right? is that make sense if we use all the copper/stereo power wires instead of all the junk wires?
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    Originally posted by Illusionsir
    Just replacing your stock grounds with larger wire will do absolutly nothing....


    believe it or not, there is electrical theory behind those hyper ground wires. i got into a long discusion about this on another board.


    read this link, makes alot of sense...


    http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/hyperground/

    i know this isnt the actual website, but thats a small piece of info on them..
    i duno man, that link seems like a pile-o-crap to me. it says the wire is specially designed, ie its shielded and is 99% copper, but most wire is like that already...

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    word, the only think different is that their wire has like 3 layers of shielding. a 5hp gain on a typeR is impressive but that could be from putting in race oils, gas, and advancing the timing, not just some grounds.

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