How do i flush a R12 system from my 93 Civic?

[shivsdhar]

Have the rest of the info from interdynamics on how to retrofit a R12 to R134a. Can i flush the earlier system at home or do i need to head to a mechanic. Also how do i identify the low pressure port?

[Dirty_SOHC]

[KoukiS14]

Are you sure this is a DIY project? This is something best left to a professional.

[civicsi]

low pressure port is the port furthest away from the rad support, there is actually a "L" on the cap.

as for flushing the old oil dont bother, it will be done when you do a recharge. they will pressurize to check for leaks, take out all teh old oil, put the new oil in and then recharge with r134a.

[bighead2267]

is anyone know who do this retrofit A/C recharge good and decent job?

[dishrag]

Its just like a bike valve. Take a stick and push the pin down. Go back and forth between each side. Let it out slowly so the oil doesn't spray everywhere. Then call up Refrigerative Supply and order a new tank of R12, R134a sucks. I'm sure I'll get flamed for this by one the many self-riteous assholes on here so here's a big "fuck you" in advance.

[EK 2.0]

Originally posted by dishrag
Its just like a bike valve. Take a stick and push the pin down. Go back and forth between each side. Let it out slowly so the oil doesn't spray everywhere. Then call up Refrigerative Supply and order a new tank of R12, R134a sucks. I'm sure I'll get flamed for this by one the many self-riteous assholes on here so here's a big "fuck you" in advance.

WTF is your problem??...


And in answer to the thread...I would leave this up to a mechanic to do...yes it does cost money...but its a lot safer, for yourself and the rest of us...

[Hollywood]

The r12 and 134 both damage the ozone. It does make a stinky mess to bleed. To go from r12 to 134 will cost you around 1000.00+/- at the dealership because you basically have to convert the system to the 134 specs.

Can you get r12 anymore?

[Zero102]

Yes you can still get R12, but it's expensive as hell. They make R12A now, which performs virutally the same, uses the same oils as well. That's what I just had my system recharged with. Still 1/2 full of R12, the stuff (supposedly) is 100% compatible, although it does feel a touch warmer, perhaps it's overcharged.

Retrofitting to R134A is too expensive. If you go to the right places, for about $20 more than a R134A fill, you can get it filled with R12A, and save the retrofitting money.
DON'T USE DURACOOL.

Sorry, had to put that in there.

[civicsi]

actually to convert your r12 in your civic to r134a is pretty easy.
Re-using your entire A/C parts, you can just buy the proper fittings that will adapt your old A/C charge ports to accept the new style fittings.Its about 80 bux, and this can easily be done yourself. it's recommended to change all old o-rings in your old system but you can take a chance if your current system doesnt have any leaks............ but they say it will eventually leak cuz it is at higher pressure ..... . Its also recommended to change the dryer/receiver)

kit: $80

dryer/reciever: $80

install: DIY (dealer=$$$)

recharge (honda will remove all old oil and replae with new oil): 120+GST

Just did this to my civic pretty easy.

[Zero102]

Technically, they say to change the O-Rings since you will use a different oil with the new refrigerant. The ester oil you would use with R12, causes the O-Rings to swell a tiny bit, it also coats the O-Rings, helping to seal up any tiny leaks around them. The (I believe) PAG oil you use with R134 does not have the same effect. At least not on the material used in the O-Rings for R12.

$80 for a receiver/dryer sounds pretty steep. I just bought a new one for my Porsche 944, for $37 =)
I guess not everything is more expensive on this car.

Anyhoo, retrofitting to R134A is relatively easy, just expensive if you have it done.
They will do one of two things.
1) Jumper out the low pressure switch, and run the system with the vacuum connected, until they suck all of the oil out of entire system, including the compressor.
2) Remove the compressor, and manually drain it, as well as changing the receiver/dryer to get rid of all the old oil.
The second way is much better, although it is also more expensive. Keep in mind, with the first method, your compressor is run while it is extremely low on oil. This is not very good for it.

Once all of the old oil is removed, they will pull a vacuum on the system (24" Hg), then re-oil with (I believe) PAG oil, then fill with R134A.

To remove/re-install the compressor, and re-oil and re-fill the system is usually around $300. Much more than simply filling with R12A. That's my basis for reccomending R12A. However, I personally am about to convert to R134A (my once-full system just sprung a leak, and while I'm in there, I have to change the receiver/dryer, and I might as well drain the compressor, and just convert, the fill is cheaper =).

[civicsi]

Actually for my system after the conversion, ester oil is still used. The o-rings on a 134a system are much thicker or "plump" than the old r12 o-rings, but still swell to seal up joints.

As for the dryer, 80 is steep, but it was a brand new from honda, what else do you expect. For 37 dollars that would get me a used dryer/receiver from A1 honda , why the hell would anyone want a used reciever/dryer...lol ??
but yeah 37 bux for a Porsche receiver dryer is a good price. i should of went that route , i would of saved 40 bux and could gain like 5 whp from that mod.

If anyone does decides to convert their system i do recommend to use an A/C leak repair kit before getting a recharge (apply this stuff through the low port and it will go and plug up any leaks prior to charging). Even if you dont know you have a leak or not.......cuz if you find out at the shop there is a leak your still charged for the recharge or a minimum shop/diagnosis fee. You can get this stuff at NAPA, it costed me under 60 bux through a hook up. regular is like 80 something.