Where to get a KS with free replacements

[mr2mike]

Hey does anyone know of a place in Calgary where I can get a knock sensor (Toyota Version) that comes with a warranty that I can take if back if I break another one in a reasonable amount of time? IE: Driving it to get it diagnosed?

[jvillain]

The only knock sensor I know of that comes with a warantee is the GM conversion and I would not go down that road. If you are blowing knock sensors you should find out why.

[mr2mike]

Ya I know I have to find out why I am and I'm working on that. So what you're saying is don't replace that sensor until I find out why I'm so rich and knocking?

I honestly think its my richness because I can smell gas like crazy at idle and at an throttle position it gets even worse.

And I don't think the GM one would be waranteed if I have to re thread it right?

[jvillain]

twosrus makes an adapter to mount the GM sensor. The problem with the GM sensor is that it listens to the wrong frequencies and so is not as sensitive to knock on our engines. In other words you could have audible knock before the GM sensor picks up on it.

So the question is are you really running rich or venting fuel to the atmosphere and really running lean? And what mods have you done to get into this position?

While you can get knock from being to rich it is pretty rare unless you have other things going on as well.

[mr2mike]

My issue I really think is I have run a wire off the original KS wire which worked for awhile but its causing me problems now. So yes I had the GM one but I'll be goin back to stock once I fix the other problems.

The car has always run rich. I recirculated the BOV thinking that was some of the problem... didn't help, except the little studder when it fired.

I've taken off the EGR and blocked it off because mine had a crack in the pipe. Also fixed an exhaust manifold leak. Took the engine out this winter and changed the timing belt and the hoses from hell.

I have the KO DP now which is new and I have audiable backfires now.

The mechanical timing is good and the timing is set at 10* BTDC. I've checked the AFM which is good, the TPS seems ok. I just have to get the fuel pressure reading and maybe a compression test. Also test out the O2 sensor.

I was thinkin about takin it into Toyota to get a diagnosis would that be worth it or not? I just don't feel like arbitrairly changing parts I think could be an issue.

What else should I look at? Its got new 6097 plugs and wires the cap and rotor may need replacing but it never studdered but I could change those.

The injectors aren't leaking and the cold start injector (I blocked it off as a test) that didn't change anything.

[jvillain]

If you are running the stock ECU and injectors then your list covers almost every thing I can think of.

From a running rich standpoint there is the possibility that your AFM is dirty. You can remove it and blast brake cleaner through it. I did that with mine when I had it and it worked wonders. There is the possibility of a boost leak as well. Other than that I am at a loss. Keep in mind that these cars run pig rich at WOT.

As for knock you could throw it on a dyno and listen to the engine with a mechanics stethescope and see if you really have knock. Don't have forged pistons do you? Do you feel the car pulling timing on you? If so under what conditions? Have you tried upping the octane to see if it stops pulling timing?

Thats all I have for now.

[mr2mike]

Ya see that's the thing I don't know if I'm running stock injectors. I assume so because wouldn't the previous owner tell me since they are quite an investment. He did have the AFC and its all been set at 0% but I think I might disconnect that AFM wire and hook it up stock till I get it going right.

AFM was cleaned (never took the screws out either) when the engine came out as well the Greddy IC was cleaned too. Throttle body cleaned.

That's the thing too, the CEL (code 52) came on when I was drivin normal on the highway to work (10min into the drive, engine was warm) I wasn't giving it or anything. I had never felt it pull timing on me it seemed to pull strong except that it would sometimes bog from what I feel is too much fuel. Then once the RPS get up and I start boosting it pulls good.

People have driven behind me and they said they could smell gas non stop. No flames though but I could hear backfires.

The code 52 did come after I blocked off the EGR. So my theory is that because the pistons are really gummed up with crud http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?...3&goto=newpost
and I blocked the EGR, I'm running warmer cylinder temps and the carbon on the heads are causing some hot spots and a little detonation issue.

So the plan is to get that fuel issue under control (PSI and O2 both tested). Then clean the piston heads off, replace the KS OEM style and hope that it works. But advice is welcomed.

Nothing on the bottom end has been built up yet to answer your forged piston question.

[stealth]

I highly suggest checking for boost leaks, i had a kinda similar problem.

But my car sometimes hesitates for a second before boost, mayube thats normal, it felt like it was pulling timing before.

My boost would go down at 4500 rpm from 15 to like 11.

But tonight i took it for a spin and all i can say is pulled really good.

[mr2mike]

boost leaks as in from the turbo to the throttle body? where was your leak?

[jvillain]

He did have the AFC and its all been set at 0% but I think I might disconnect that AFM wire and hook it up stock till I get it going right.

If you take it to Toyota that is the first thing that they will do. I would dump it at least for now. That way you know what you are working with.

What color are the injectors red or blue? If the AFC is in there I would probably guess that you have 550s or 540s in there. Why else would you throw in a AFC? I have the 440s I pulled off of my engine I can let you have for $80. I'll throw in the rail as well. That would let you know for sure what it is your dealing with.

[stealth]

I was leaking from Turbo to INtercooler.

[mr2mike]

I can't really see a color on the injectors. There is no red for sure it would probably be blue if anything. But there is a plastic retainer thing over the injector tops.

If I take off the AFC can I just disconnect the AFM wires and put just that back to stock? I wouldn't think that the RPM wire or Throttle wire would be an issue but if you recommend, I can disconnect it all.

I don't think I need your injectors just yet.

[jvillain]

I've never even seen an AFC so I can't really help you there. I would try the MR2OC board.

[mr2mike]

I'll just disconnect it all I don't need a wrong TPS issue by something I can prevent.

Never seen an AFC? Went straight from stock to EMS? Must be nice