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Thread: Car Analysis

  1. #1
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    Default Car Analysis

    I drive a 1992 Mercury Sable that needs the following repairs, that I know of: new tie rods, new front CV axle (or at least the joints), washer fluid doesn't work, and whatever the clicking noise is when I accelerate in second and third gear. Also, it needs some rust fixed, and new springs and shocks would be good, as the ride's really rough.

    I'm in the process of looking for a part-time job for a 16-year-old, looking to make maybe $150 or so a week USD. Before I invest any money in my car for the repairs it needs, I thought it might be a good idea to get all the major parts analyzed so I know in what condition they are, so I can determine if it's worth getting the repairs done or not. For example, core engine stuff, the source of the oil burning that it does, the transmission, the frame, and whatever else you guys can think of. That way, if those things are all in decent shape, I'll feel more confident about getting the repairs done it needs. But, if one or more of those things are close to dying, I won't invest a lot in repairs, and just drive it until it's dead.

    So, is this analysis something I can reasonably get done? And not for a truck load of money? Thanks!

  2. #2
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    just drive it until it is dead. the repairs you are wanting done are not really major and arent going to cause the car to fall apart. the only kind of major problem is the tie rods and cv shaft. is it the cv shaft that is making the clicking noise? does the car shake while at highway speed? does it click when you turn?

  3. #3
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    It does click when I turn, but I think only when I accelerate through a turn. The more I accelerate, and the sharper the turn, the more rapid and loud the clicking. I don't think it shakes at highway speeds, though. The clicking when I accelerate is something different. It's a very light, fast clicking, and it only happens at the peak of the gear. After it switches and the RPMs lower, the clicking goes away. Only happens at the top of second and third gear, I believe (it's a four speed automatic).

    The tie rods definitely need done, the guys who put my new tires and rims on said they were completely shot and I should get them done well before another 3,000 miles (I've driven it about four hundred since then).

    But, my question is, should I get the major parts of the car looked over before I invest in any repairs at all? See, if I find out the engine, transmission, and frame are all in good shape, it'll be okay to spend a couple hundred on tie rods and even more on the CV axle, because I know I'll be able to keep the car for awhile longer (currently has 123,600 miles on it). But, if they say some things are already near a critical state, I won't bother doing any repairs really at all except maybe the tie rods and the washer fluid.

  4. #4
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    Just drive it till it dies aka. beat the shit out of it, then take anything of value off the car and sell that, then sell the rest of the car to a junk yard. Add that up with money from your job and buy a car that wont be fubar within a couple months of driving it!

  5. #5
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    Well, here are the repairs I've done since last July:

    new starter (had to)
    new battery (had to, my fault, didn't run it for a couple weeks)
    new fanbelt (to get rid of squeaking sound)
    new wiper switch
    new rear strut (had to)

    And to pass inspection last October, I got new rear brakes.

    Now, you say to do no repairs whatsoever, and just drive it until it dies. I'm saying, wouldn't it be a good idea to have the major parts looked over, so I know what the chances are of it dying? If the engine, tranny, and frame are all in good shape, it'll be cheaper to get the repairs done it needs than to get a new or used car. I'm not saying you're wrong, just wondering. Thanks!

  6. #6
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    the clicking may be rocker arms or the valve train. where is it coming from...from the tranny or motor? i'm thinking that that is the valvetrain. have you checked your oil and tranny fluid lately? the clicking while turning is the cv shafts.

  7. #7
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    Tranny or motor...honestly I can't say. Oil's good, tranny fluid definitely needs flushed and refilled...maybe that could be it?

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    so basically u want a mechanic to check your car over and give u an estimate, correct? most places will do this for free if u are going to be doing the repairs thru them.

    the reason most people are telling u to not bother with repairs is because u will probably regret dumping money into a car that wont reward u for the work uve put into it.

  9. #9
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    No, not an estimate. I want to get the condition of the major, critical parts of the car, to determine how much more life I can expect out of them. Basically, I want to know what the chances are of the tranny or some part of the engine dying anytime soon. If they're all in decent shape, I won't be afraid to put money into it for repairs.

  10. #10
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    theyll still do a "consultation" for u if they know u will become a paying customer.

    but what im wondering is why u want to put this money into the sable rather than saving up for something better

  11. #11
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    Good question. Well, let's go through this.

    Say I saved up a down payment for a used car for myself. It'd still have to be $500 to a grand, which is a lot to save up with a part time minimum wage job. Even then, I'd have to pay probably about $150 a month for four for five years to pay it off (assuming it's five to eight grand for the car or so, USD). That's a lot of payments, considering I'd have to pay for most of it myself. Plus, it would be a small, cheap, weak car, with most likely no options at all (like a Neon or Cavalier with no power windows or locks, etc.). That's kind of depressing if you ask me, paying all that and still having a lower end car, especially since my Sable is big, which I like, and decently powerful, and has power everything.

    Now, say I invest $800-$1000 in repairs for my Sable right now (not saying I'm going to, just speculation). That means, if I did that right now, it'd need no repairs at all, and would have the nice, smooth ride that it did when it was new. Granted, it's an old car, so of course it'll need repairs over time, but as long as the major parts of the car are okay (engine, tranny, frame, etc.), it should still be cheaper than buying a used car.

    So, I know you'll disagree with this, so please tell me why. Your opinion is valued, thanks.

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    You don't think you could find an early 90's model with options for around 3-5 grand? I bet you could get a darn nice car. That is what I would do If I was in your position, but as long asyour sable is getting you around, save up and shop around. Just my $.02.
    Every time I turn around, there I am.

  13. #13
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    damn dude just go on ebay and find a nice cheap ae86 actually if you really want to keep the car you have the tranny fluid needing flushed could quite possibly help a lot. it may also need a tranny filter changing and qhile your at it grease the front suspension and everything to get rid of the clicking in the cv shaft maybe.

  14. #14
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    That'd be great if all it needed was greased. Once I actually land myself a job, I'll save up a couple paychecks, and get those tie rods done, all fluids flushed and refilled, and see if they can help the clicking noise without actually replacing the axle. Then just get some rust fixed. None of that should cost TOO much, and then hopefully I can stop there.

    avgdude32, I do plan to do what you described. Drive my Sable until it's dead, put off buying another car as long as possible and save in the meantime. However, I always assumed that to get a decent used car I'd have to spend at least seven or eight grand USD. I COULD get an early 90s model for three to five grand, but that car probably wouldn't be in any better shape than my Sable is, and would probably have its own host of problems, wouldn't you think? I was figuring I'd need to look for something with less than 40,000 miles on it.

    Thanks!

  15. #15
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  16. #16
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    Don't die just yet, thread.

  17. #17
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    so how bad is the rust you need to fix? is it all the way through to the other side? if not then it will sand out and be able to be primered. if it is then just bondo it. bondo is like $6 at walmart

  18. #18
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    I don't think it's all the way through. It's just a strip along the driver's door, and a small patch behind both back doors. It'd probably be cake to fix myself but I'm sure I'd make it look crappy.

  19. #19
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    just take your time when painting

  20. #20
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    So, can anyone tell me why getting the car completely analyzed isn't a good idea? I know it's older, but if everything besides what I know it needs appears to be in decent shape, why not invest more in repairs? Or, would a mechanic not be able to determine the exact state of the engine, transmission, and frame?

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