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Thread: How do you prep the ride for winter storage?

  1. #1
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    Default How do you prep the ride for winter storage?

    I fill the tank with premium, change oil/filter, inflate tires a touch higher than normal, and keep battery on trickle charger. No stabilizer or the like.
    Any tips on how you guys do it?
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    I usually do all the above, but put fuel stabilizer in it. Kind of an odd question for now isn't it? as most are getting their summer cars out of hibernation.
    "The music business is a cruel and shallow money trench, a long plastic hallway where thieves and pimps run free, and good men die like dogs. There's also a negative side"

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    I do it like I've mentioned in the dozen other threads on this subject.

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    Winter will come next year as well.
    1990 Poonstang
    1990 Sexplorer
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    2003 GMC SLE 1500HD Donkey Hauler
    2013 Ram Longhorn w/ a 6" lift and 35s
    2017 Nissan Maxima

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    ^ Sure, good luck remembering everything that would potentially be said in this thread when that happens.
    "The music business is a cruel and shallow money trench, a long plastic hallway where thieves and pimps run free, and good men die like dogs. There's also a negative side"

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    Originally posted by Graham_A_M
    ^ Sure, good luck remembering everything that would potentially be said in this thread when that happens.
    Disconnect battery. Come back in 6 months.

    What more do you need to remember
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    Usually do whats already been said.

    Throw down mouse traps and monitor.
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    Of what I once knew

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    Fill tank, add stabilizer
    Inflate tires to 45 psi
    Disconnect battery

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    @OP, why fill with premium? Unless that's what you always put in that vehicle...

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    Originally posted by cjblair
    @OP, why fill with premium? Unless that's what you always put in that vehicle...
    Well, premium from Shell won't have ethanol in it which will absorb water. That's the only bonus I could see.

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    Non-ethanol gas should be a goal. Not sure the octane or other additives will assist anything.
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    Premium tends to have slightly more stabilizer as it sits in the ground tanks longer.

    Bare minimum should be:

    - disconnect negative terminal
    - fill with premium

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    Default Re: How do you prep the ride for winter storage?

    Originally posted by colinderksen
    I fill the tank with premium, change oil/filter, inflate tires a touch higher than normal, and keep battery on trickle charger. No stabilizer or the like.
    Any tips on how you guys do it?
    Are you in Australia ?

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    Nice to see Australia has found there way to beyond!
    Current vehicle: 2006 BMW 330XI & 2007 R1

    Previous Vehicles: 2007 R6 - 2006 Acura TSX 6MT - 2008 BMW 328XI - 2007 Infiniti G35 6MT - 2009 BMW 335i X-drive - 2003 Infiniti G35 - 2004 R6 - 2007 Slammed VW R -2003 BMW 330I -1992 Nissan Skyline GTS-T -2002 Ford Mustang -1985 Caddy Eldorado -'87 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z Mitsu Turbo -1996 Mitsubishi Evo IV GSR -2004 Dodge Dakota SLT+ -2003 Subaru WRX -2000 BMW 740i -1995 Nissan Skyline GTS25-T (Stock RB25) -1990 Nissan Sil40 (KA24DE) -1989 Toyota Supra Turbo (JDM 7M-GTE) -2004 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V -1997 GMC Sierra 1500 (350 6" lift) -1989 Nissan 240SX SE (KA24E '93 body style) -1995 Acura Integra LE (Worst car I ever owned) -1995 Acura Integra Type R (B18B1 prepped for turbo, but never turbo'd)

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    I also put a liter of two stroke oil in the tank as well (depends on the size of tank as to how much to add) but it helps lubricate the top end until the oil pump can adequately build pressure and circulate the oil for when you first start it in the spring. If you have an RX7 with a rotary engine, this is just about mandatory every time you fill up lol.
    "The music business is a cruel and shallow money trench, a long plastic hallway where thieves and pimps run free, and good men die like dogs. There's also a negative side"

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    Depending also where will it be stored?

    Indoor/outdoor? (Both different procedures as well).

    In any-case.. Moisture is your worst enemy, especially in the engine.

    If you are considering to store your car for 6 months or more, you should change your oil and filter. (Cheap stuff will do.. For storage). Why? Used engine oil is corrosive, and will corrode the internals of the engine. The engine components, as well as the oil in the engine itself, are subject to moisture accumulation caused by natural condensation from these changes. If an engine is not run for an extended period of time, the oil film that was left on any individual component within the engine at the last shutdown deteriorates to a point that allows the accumulated moisture to make contact with the surface the oil was on. Corrosion of that surface will result. At the same time, accumulated moisture in the engine oil reacts with deposits in the oil that have developed from normal engine operation. This reaction can cause the engine oil itself to become acidic and corrosion on the part that the oil is trying to protect will result.

    So... change your oil. A MUST if storing outside!

    Also.. To protect the combustion chambers, and piston rings from corrosion..

    1. fill with fresh gas, and fuel stabilizer and run for about 10-mins (Drive around)
    2. Disconnect fuel pump relay.. or fuse.. Start engine and let run until it stalls out. (this cuts fuel going to the combustion chamber and also circulates the stabilizer in the fuel system, but not to the combustion chambers)
    3. Remove spark plugs and Spray fogging oil/engine storage spray (should read.. Safe for Catalytic converters) or put a teaspoon or two of regular engine oil. (Bad for converters... if you have them)
    4. Start the engine (3 clicks or so) to let the pistons cycle through to allow the oil to coat around the combustion chambers
    5. Reconnect fuel pump fuse when done. (DO NOT start till storage is over.. starting the car will burn off the storage oil, and dump fuel with stabilizer to the combustion engine which ruins the protective film you put on during the steps)

    HINT: if you are storing your car.. put it in gear and do not apply the e-brake. This will prevent your pads binding to your brake discs (or your shoes binding to the drum). Use wheel chocks.
    -Plug your exhaust, and your air intake with a cloth. (Prevents rodents, or pests building nests inside during winter)
    -Remove your battery and have it on a charger, or battery maintainer.

    Also, Wash and wax your car before storage, this helps protect your paint finish and repel condensation.
    Last edited by sidewaysD; 04-30-2014 at 03:21 PM.

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