Question about going from conventional to fully synethic motor oil

[copynpaste]

I know its not good to blend different oil brands even if its just a bit left from the previous fill. Im getting different opinions on this. Whats the best way to flush to make sure all the current oil thats in it now is completely out before putting in the Mobil 1 synthetic oil? I was told from honda that you wont need to flush it after draining all the current conventional oil out. But wont there be still some left over?

Also I was told for Mobil 1, that theres better quality oil filters than honda OEM. Can you guys recommend one? cause i think honda charges like 3x the price for their filter and ive heard theres some other brands that are just as good if not better.

[Kloubek]

Ever hear of semi-synthetic? Regular oil blended with synthetic.

Are you using the same weight oil? If so, I don't see why there would be any issue. (Never heard of different weights being an issue either, but I wonder if they would combine properly or not)

[Zero102]

There is always a bit left behind. Just drain and fill with synthetic and keep using it. After 2-3 oil changes you won't be able to measure the amount of conventional oil left behind, and it will be in such a small quantity that any incompatibility between additive packages will not be of concern.

[msommers]

What do you drive? How many km's on your vehicle? Wondering why you're switching to synthetic.

As for filters: Wix/Napa GOLD/K&N

[heavyD]

Originally posted by msommers
What do you drive? How many km's on your vehicle? Wondering why you're switching to synthetic.

If the engine is old or high mileage I would advise to stick with conventional or high mileage oils. Switching to synthetic oil on a high mileage engine may bring on leaks.

[bituerbo]

Originally posted by heavyD


If the engine is old or high mileage I would advise to stick with conventional or high mileage oils. Switching to synthetic oil on a high mileage engine may bring on leaks.

This.

And dont' worry about 'flushing' if you're switching oils. The lubricants manufactuers would like you to think that there are more differences between products than there actually are.

[copynpaste]

Originally posted by msommers
What do you drive? How many km's on your vehicle? Wondering why you're switching to synthetic.

As for filters: Wix/Napa GOLD/K&N

01 civic SI. 136,200km.

Was recommended by one of my mechs to switch to synetic cause it'll be easier for the car in the winter, and more life out of your engine cause it protects it better than conventional oil.

[msommers]

Honestly man, going to synthetic now is a waste of money, maybe when it was easily less than 50,000km sure I guess. I'm not really for synthetic anyways unless you have a boosted vehicle but that's just opinion.

[rc2002]

Synthetic is better in the winter time. It pours more easily than the conventional stuff so it's easier on your engine for startup if you park outside.

I notice a lot less clatter and faster cranking with synthetic in the winter.

[copynpaste]

Originally posted by richardchan2002
Synthetic is better in the winter time. It pours more easily than the conventional stuff so it's easier on your engine for startup if you park outside.

I notice a lot less clatter and faster cranking with synthetic in the winter.

Ya and its suppose to be easier on your battery too.

[heavyD]

Originally posted by copynpaste


01 civic SI. 136,200km.

Was recommended by one of my mechs to switch to synetic cause it'll be easier for the car in the winter, and more life out of your engine cause it protects it better than conventional oil.

Give it a shot just stick with the recommended viscosity and if your engine is in good shape you should be okay. Check your oil levels a little more than you normally would just in case you spring a leak or get a little more blow by.

[copynpaste]

Originally posted by heavyD


Give it a shot just stick with the recommended viscosity and if your engine is in good shape you should be okay. Check your oil levels a little more than you normally would just in case you spring a leak or get a little more blow by.

WHat would you say are teh chances of getting a leak on engine like mine?

[CapnCrunch]

Originally posted by copynpaste


WHat would you say are teh chances of getting a leak on engine like mine?

Not likely. That fact was relevant to synthetic oils in the 70's, not todays modern synthetics.

And you can mix oils all you like. You can mix conventional and synthetic, different grades, and different brands if you wish. I buy my synthetic oil based on whatever is on sale, so I've often mixed different grades and different brands. Right now I have Castrol Syntec 5W30 and Esso XD-3 0W40 in my truck. I run my synthetics for 10,000km.

I like purolator pure 1 or Napa gold for filters, based on my research. In reality, I've never had issues with any filters I've used.

[Neil4Speed]

Originally posted by CapnCrunch


Not likely. That fact was relevant to synthetic oils in the 70's, not todays modern synthetics.

And you can mix oils all you like. You can mix conventional and synthetic, different grades, and different brands if you wish. I buy my synthetic oil based on whatever is on sale, so I've often mixed different grades and different brands. Right now I have Castrol Syntec 5W30 and Esso XD-3 0W40 in my truck. I run my synthetics for 10,000km.

This

I switched to synthetic on my old Legend at around 390k, found the car ran a fair bit better after the switch. I never had any problems with leaks.

[heavyD]

Originally posted by copynpaste


WHat would you say are teh chances of getting a leak on engine like mine?

It really all depends on the age and condition of the gaskets and seals. I found with both my Hondas that I got slightly more blowby and with both engines the oil pan started to sweat. You may get some slight leakage at the valve cover depending on the shape of the gasket and if it's torqued down properly. Mostly pretty minor stuff. My Eagle Talon and MR2 both were leak free until I switched to synthetic then both sprang leaks which were a PITA to fix but your car being a 2001 with fair mileage should probably be fine.

[Zero102]

Originally posted by heavyD


If the engine is old or high mileage I would advise to stick with conventional or high mileage oils. Switching to synthetic oil on a high mileage engine may bring on leaks.

This is just an old myth that won't die for some reason.

If you switch, and your engine starts leaking, then you had a leak before it just wasn't leaking quickly, or was plugged up with sludge.

Back in the 70's the synthetic oils available would destroy certain types of gaskets and seals which is where this myth came from. That hasn't been the case for more than 30 years.


Synthetic oil is much easier on your engine in the winter, and generally it is also much easier on the battery / starter motor. What you can usually do is switch to a slightly lighter oil for the winter as well. For example, if you usually run 5W30 you can switch to 0W30 for the winter. It has nearly the same viscosity when warm and so it will protect just as well, but has significantly lower cranking resistance.

[copynpaste]

Originally posted by heavyD


It really all depends on the age and condition of the gaskets and seals. I found with both my Hondas that I got slightly more blowby and with both engines the oil pan started to sweat. You may get some slight leakage at the valve cover depending on the shape of the gasket and if it's torqued down properly. Mostly pretty minor stuff. My Eagle Talon and MR2 both were leak free until I switched to synthetic then both sprang leaks which were a PITA to fix but your car being a 2001 with fair mileage should probably be fine.

How do you tell for leaks or what are signs? can you just check by checking your oil? when do they normally start to show up?

And im guessing you had to take yours to mechs to fix the leaks?

Well i dont know what the chances of getting leaks but i sure hope i dont.

.

[heavyD]

Originally posted by Zero102

This is just an old myth that won't die for some reason.

If you switch, and your engine starts leaking, then you had a leak before it just wasn't leaking quickly, or was plugged up with sludge.

Back in the 70's the synthetic oils available would destroy certain types of gaskets and seals which is where this myth came from. That hasn't been the case for more than 30 years.

LOL. The myth you are talking about is that Synthetic oil causes leaks. That's not what I'm saying. Synthetic oil doesn't actively make leaks on it's own but has zero tolerance for worn gaskets or clearances compared to dyno oil that can fill some imperfections with larger molecules. Also in high mileage engines deposits can be the only thing keeping oil from leaking and the superior detergents of synthetic will clean the deposits and find the leak. Also if the piston rings are starting to wear you will get more blowby with synthetic.

Dyno oils are really good these days and for people that drive non-performance cars, change the oil at all the recommended intervals and use the recommended grade oil there's really no reason to change to synthetic oil. Yes it does help cold startup but not near as much as a good battery does. My wife's cars going back to the early 90's have always used only dyno oil and we've never, ever had any issues related to lubrication. There's no need to unless the manufacturer recommends it or it's a performance car that will be tracked or modded.

[heavyD]

Originally posted by copynpaste


How do you tell for leaks or what are signs? can you just check by checking your oil? when do they normally start to show up?

And im guessing you had to take yours to mechs to fix the leaks?

Well i dont know what the chances of getting leaks but i sure hope i dont.

.

If you don't have leaks present you should be okay. Your engine isn't that old or high mileage so as long as you don't have any existing small leaks you should be fine. Are you changing the oil yourself or at the dealer? Dealers will rape you on synthetic oil changes to the point where you are better off sticking to regular oil. If you are doing it yourself just get a Honda oil filter, go to Walmart (or whoever has it on sale) and get some Mobil 1 of the proper grade and have at it.

[Zero102]

Originally posted by heavyD
My wife's cars going back to the early 90's have always used only dyno oil and we've never, ever had any issues related to lubrication.

You pluralized car(s), so she hasn't kept a single car since the early 90's and so you do not have long term data to support that her vehicles have never experienced any lubrication related issues.