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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by zhao View Post
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    My math says you are paying exactly full price, but they're throwing in 3m for 'free' (You work at a dealership that you've been at for 1000 years in dealership years, so your cost is probably $400-500 for that stuff if you sublet it out, or a couple hundred cash to the guy doing it on a weekend if you have an in-house guy and no one cares about eating material cost for an employee that's been there forever, which if you were my underline, would be the case).

    Winter mats, locks, etc are usually standard now also on any luxury car so that is of zero additional value. I know they were on my 335 and they were again on my wife's lexus we just bought last month.

    That is not a car that is flying off the shelves, and infiniti isn't a brand that is killing it with sales right now. Plus, as the salesmen at your dealership said, cost + 500 used to be the goauto deal for employees... also, full price on a 50g car..... wtf lol. Lexus just chopped 5g off a 35gish car for me. BMW chopped 7.2% (i think, memory is getting foggy now) off a 55gish car for me before. I negotiated acura selling a base RDX to my mom aftertax/pdi/freight for 1-2g cheaper than MSRP.



    My opinion, i'd just tube the deal. Despite what people say about goauto, they're highly unlikely to keep your deposit unless you say something to piss them off, so tell them you can't afford it. And since you work at merc, i'd be looking at something in-house (whats wrong with a c300? ya its not 300hp, but that 240+ is definitely decent and good enough, and IMO it's a better feeling car. That infiniti imo suffers from the same thing acuras do. luxury stuff glued to an unrefined chassis. you get too many options compared to the competition and that has to be made up by cost cutting somewhere) unless you really love the Q50... but goauto has 2 infiniti dealerships to choose from so you can always walk in to the other one.

    As for Q50's, erickson (i'm assuming you are dealing with the infiniti dealership next door to your work?) has a billion 2017s you could probably get for a steal; its not like 2018 or 2017 really makes a difference 5 years down the road unless it was a major improvement/facelift year. They have 2017 red sports for probably cheaper than what you're willing to pay for a 2018 q50s.

    In the future i'd recommend not ever getting a 'hook up'. It's very hard to give a good deal to someone you know because you have to justify it (you can't just give a car away because it's a coworker of your relative), and imo if you're half decent at negotiating you'll always get a better deal walking in as a random than being 'hooked up' as a buddy. Giving a hell of a deal to some random is easier because they can justify it as a volume sale for end of month, or whatever. It's one more sale u didn't have and if you had to work for it you have a good story why you got grinded down hard. I'd also not sign anything or give an unconditional deposit until you work out all the math every way possible. I'd also never deal on payments... even on a lease I deal on the actual cost of the car. Also, if you give a deposit, it should be with conditions. Conditions on your gf, wife, dad, whatever approving of the deal is an easy one that gives you carte blanche to back out.
    Agree with everything said here.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dj_rice View Post
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    At the end of the day, I wanted a great deal, not to be swindled in the industry. You can swindle Joe Blow off the street but not a fellow auto industry worker.
    Remember, most of the people on this forum are the "Joe Blows". So it's ok to swindle everyone but you? No wonder the auto industry has such a bad rep. You deserve whatever you get.

    Problem is, still sounds like you got a reasonable deal and you're just too greedy to appreciate it.

  3. #43
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    Well, you know the whole saying "better to be thought a fool than to speak and to remove all doubt"?
    dj_rice is starting to be prime example of this, lol.

    Joe Blow off the street has more street smarts than to get owned like this

  4. #44
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    Red sports were very low $50K range when we were looking after incentives - not sure if those have ended or not but there was not $6300 difference, more like $2000-$3000 if you paid $49K. There was $7500 off or so. Those incentives were also from Infinity and apply BEFORE dealer negotiations.

    On your deal, profit seems way too high IMO. I paid around $300 on $30K for dealer profit plus free mats, free oil changes, free trunk liner, locking wheel nuts, etching, etc. and of course no admin fee (always refuse that unless it comes entirely out of their end). I would not give them ~$2400 on $50K. A standard starting point for negotiations is cost + $500 + throw ins and of course no admin fee unless they want to do cost + 0 + admin fee.

    Also I think someone mentioned it already but NEVER give them the freedom to calculate your payment. Always negotiate the all-in car price, and figure out the payment yourself. The math is extremely straightforward.

    Just bail on the deal if you can get the deposit back.
    Last edited by Mitsu3000gt; 08-21-2017 at 09:01 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedog View Post
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    Just curious - what a salesperson claims might be the invoice cost is probably something quite different to what the dealership actually paid for the vehicle. Am I correct in saying this or not? Are the salesmen aware of all the discounts or other behind the scenes deals that a dealership may get? I know when we owned our retail pet place, my staff were not generally aware of some of the smoking deals I got - that was my business and not theirs. Exactly how do these things work in the automobile sales world or is everyone on here in the know somehow with respect to invoice pricing versus the real actual vehicle cost to the dealership?
    Every dealer is different but usually anyone below the sales manager doesn't have a clue on the true cost of anything. It's why no salesman ever oks a deal himself but goes to the tower to get it oked. Even in used cars they don't usually let the salesmen know what anything cost until they sold it. If a salesman ever oks a price himself you are paying full price or over full price

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    Quote Originally Posted by zhao View Post
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    Every dealer is different but usually anyone below the sales manager doesn't have a clue on the true cost of anything. It's why no salesman ever oks a deal himself but goes to the tower to get it oked. Even in used cars they don't usually let the salesmen know what anything cost until they sold it. If a salesman ever oks a price himself you are paying full price or over full price
    So people who post on here that they got their vehicle at cost or $500-1,000 over cost really do not know what the true end cost of that vehicle was to the dealership? If so, why do they say such?
    Will fuck off, again.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ExtraSlow View Post
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    Omg.
    This. Just this.

    I need more customers like him

  8. #48
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    For what it is worth and not sure if it's mentioned make sure you're accounting the taxes and the extra charges of the vehicle as well. If you're building the car to exact same spec online to the one you purchased and they are same price, chances are the online one doesn't include taxes, PDI and all the extra costs. So there may be somewhat of a 'deal' in that manner. Either way, good luck and let us know what happens. I would also stick with a Merc since you work there anyway.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitsu3000gt View Post
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    Red sports were very low $50K range when we were looking after incentives - not sure if those have ended or not but there was not $6300 difference, more like $2000-$3000 if you paid $49K. There was $7500 off or so. Those incentives were also from Infinity and apply BEFORE dealer negotiations.
    Ya pretty much this. I confirmed with my friend that bought a new red sport with all 3 option packages in Feb. He paid $54k all in for a cash deal.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doozer View Post
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    Remember, most of the people on this forum are the "Joe Blows". So it's ok to swindle everyone but you? No wonder the auto industry has such a bad rep. You deserve whatever you get.

    Problem is, still sounds like you got a reasonable deal and you're just too greedy to appreciate it.

    Yes I apologize for how I worded it and made it come off. Yes I work in the auto industry and know how it is, and no its not okay to swindle Joe Blow, its all my fault for not coming prepared and knowing this and that, I fully understand my mistake. I got majorly owned LOL I admit it. Now I'm trying to fix it
    Last edited by dj_rice; 08-21-2017 at 10:02 AM.
    Originally posted by GTS Jeff
    You know those bored stay at home moms who's entire lives revolve around driving their kids to soccer, various cleaning accessories, and worrying about neighbourhood rapists? The kind of people that watch the View and go "uh huh..." Those unfulfilled people who try to fill the void in their empty lives by writing whiny letters to the editor complaining about shit that no one really cares about?

    Well imagine if instead of writing that letter to the editor, she just posts on a car forum for car enthusiasts. That's Kritafo.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitsu3000gt View Post
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    On your deal, profit seems way too high IMO. I paid around $300 on $30K for dealer profit plus free mats, free oil changes, free trunk liner, locking wheel nuts, etching, etc. and of course no admin fee (always refuse that unless it comes entirely out of their end). I would not give them ~$2400 on $50K. A standard starting point for negotiations is cost + $500 + throw ins and of course no admin fee unless they want to do cost + 0 + admin fee.
    I thought you had a NDA on your deal and you were not allowed to discuss it

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    Quote Originally Posted by D'z Nutz View Post
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    Not even kidding I read an article a while ago that said 96 month financing for vehicles was becoming very common in both Canada and the USA. I can't even imagine financing a vehicle that long, that's my goal for paying off my first mortgage haha.

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedog View Post
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    So people who post on here that they got their vehicle at cost or $500-1,000 over cost really do not know what the true end cost of that vehicle was to the dealership? If so, why do they say such?
    "Cost" is understood to mean dealer invoice + mandatory fees (Freight, PDI, AC, Tire, AMVIC). That's the best you're ever going to be able to find out.

    The best you can do is dealer invoice (it's not a secret - if they they don't show, you find a new salesman or dealership) confirmed by CCC + a small amount. You will never know their absolute true cost as too many factors come into play that even the dealer may not know for sure at the time, such as how long it's been on the lot, dealer volume kickbacks, dealer holdbacks, etc. Always start the deal from dealer invoice/cost + whatever profit you're willing to pay + as much stuff as you can get thrown in as possible + no admin fee (unless they do cost + 0). That's the best you can do. Negotiating on step 'deeper' using their kickbacks and incentives from the manufacturer as leverage would be pretty much impossible.


    Quote Originally Posted by realazy View Post
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    Ya pretty much this. I confirmed with my friend that bought a new red sport with all 3 option packages in Feb. He paid $54k all in for a cash deal.
    Yup. No reason not to buy a red sport if you are going to be spending $50K anyway. They are WAY better than the regular one.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by mzdspd View Post
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    I thought you had a NDA on your deal and you were not allowed to discuss it
    I didn't state my exact deal but yeah, that paperwork was hilarious. It's just another dealership tactic to make everyone think they got a screamin' deal. My deal was pretty standard.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Twin_Cam_Turbo View Post
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    Not even kidding I read an article a while ago that said 96 month financing for vehicles was becoming very common in both Canada and the USA. I can't even imagine financing a vehicle that long, that's my goal for paying off my first mortgage haha.
    Kind of a silly attitude to have considering how the cost of a car has gone relative to wages in the past two decades.

    To get into a newer car, people need the longer term financing. At the end of the day, credit is a tool. 84 month financing at 0%? Sign me up. Sure, there may be "incentives" to not do so, but I've never seen the math laid out so it would be attractive to part ways with $40k in cash vs the finance over 84 months for 0%.

    The problem becomes when people overleverage vs using it as a tool to get a better product/more useful product sooner than if they had saved.

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    Holy smokes. 84 months and still over $600/monthly. Personally, I'd look at a cheaper vehicle but I'm not one to tell people how they should use their money.

    Hopefully you can get your deposit back.

    I've heard countless stories about so called "bro deals" and especially in the sales industry, everyone wants something for their time/favour/expertise so sometimes it's just simpler to do things yourself.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HiTempguy1 View Post
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    Kind of a silly attitude to have considering how the cost of a car has gone relative to wages in the past two decades.

    To get into a newer car, people need the longer term financing. At the end of the day, credit is a tool. 84 month financing at 0%? Sign me up. Sure, there may be "incentives" to not do so, but I've never seen the math laid out so it would be attractive to part ways with $40k in cash vs the finance over 84 months for 0%.

    The problem becomes when people overleverage vs using it as a tool to get a better product/more useful product sooner than if they had saved.
    Agreed with the 84mo 0% financing. That said, many people often don't think about plans long term which goes alongside with your point about overleveraging. Even though you're on 0%, you still have a monthly burden for 84 months and is just another allocation leaving you with less to work with at the end of every month.

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    Maybe you're just not as famous as you think you are....or maybe worse... They hate your guts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HiTempguy1 View Post
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    Kind of a silly attitude to have considering how the cost of a car has gone relative to wages in the past two decades.

    To get into a newer car, people need the longer term financing. At the end of the day, credit is a tool. 84 month financing at 0%? Sign me up. Sure, there may be "incentives" to not do so, but I've never seen the math laid out so it would be attractive to part ways with $40k in cash vs the finance over 84 months for 0%.

    The problem becomes when people overleverage vs using it as a tool to get a better product/more useful product sooner than if they had saved.
    I know once or twice a year GM does 20% off cash purchases. I think that would be worth it. When I bought new, I only wanted to do a max of 5 years to minimize the time spent under water on the financing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtsniffer View Post
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    I know once or twice a year GM does 20% off cash purchases. I think that would be worth it. When I bought new, I only wanted to do a max of 5 years to minimize the time spent under water on the financing.
    It really depends.. They offer 20% off for cash but when does anyone ever pay MSRP for a GM, especially a GM truck? Most probably sell for far below MSRP..

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    Quote Originally Posted by rx7boi View Post
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    Holy smokes. 84 months and still over $600/monthly. Personally, I'd look at a cheaper vehicle but I'm not one to tell people how they should use their money.
    $318 bw is $689/month. So about $58,000 all said and done.

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