1995 Civic Won't Start

[dcast10101]

Hey beyond!

It's been ages since I've been on the site. Hoping for some help with a 1995 civic LX (1.5L 5-speed) that won't start.

The breakdown:
Drove home from work. Stalled pulling into the driveway. Wouldn't restart.

Symptoms:
- Battery is new and holds a good charge.
- Cranks strong but won't fire (starter tested OK at partsource). Occasionally hear what sounds like a single cylinder fire but not more than that.
- When I pulled the plugs the first time there was oil in one of the spark plug cylinders (above the plug). Cleared the oil out. Replaced the valve cover gasket + spark plug cylinder gaskets.
- Fuel pump primes. Plugs smelled like gas after cranking.
- Back Up fuse was blown. Replaced.
- Grounds appear to be OK. Pulled the valve cover ground & thermostat ground: cleaned connections. Replaced.
- Spark was more yellow/orange than blue. Possible coil?
- The strangest part is when I look under the dash for fuse 24 there are a couple things missing. No fuse 24, 25, or C801 leading to the SRS Main Harness. Looking around under the dash I can't see them floating around anywhere... See picture below for details:



I'm a little baffled on this one. Anyone kind enough to point me in the right direction?

[revelations]

1995 - do you have a coil or distributor?

Either way, its very likely something with the electrical ignition system - even with spark appearing.

[dcast10101]

1995 has a distributor, coil and igniter.

Igniter - Orchestrates the operation of the coil

Coil - Creates the high voltage spark

Distributor - Allocates this spark to the appropriate cylinder


How would one determine if the spark observed is enough?

[brucebanner]

Something else to consider is the ignition switch. I remember when I used to have a 90-93 Integra, that the ignition switch used to cause me headaches. Car would roll over but would not start.

[firebane]

Originally posted by dcast10101
1995 has a distributor, coil and igniter.

Igniter - Orchestrates the operation of the coil

Coil - Creates the high voltage spark

Distributor - Allocates this spark to the appropriate cylinder


How would one determine if the spark observed is enough?

Distributors are a VERY common problem on early generation civics. The ignitor or coil will fail causing a no start in the car.

Easiest way to tell if your coil is dead or if the distributor is properly working is pull out a spark plug and plug it in the wire and touch it to a metal part while someone tries to turn over the car.. if you see spark its good.. if not you have a problem.

Other way to check is to grab a Haynes/Helms/Chilton manual and the have the procedures on how to check if your ignitor or coil is working properly.

But honestly if you can get a hold of a second distributor just swap it in.

[G-ZUS]

Originally posted by firebane


Distributors are a VERY common problem on early generation civics. The ignitor or coil will fail causing a no start in the car.

Easiest way to tell if your coil is dead or if the distributor is properly working is pull out a spark plug and plug it in the wire and touch it to a metal part while someone tries to turn over the car.. if you see spark its good.. if not you have a problem.

Other way to check is to grab a Haynes/Helms/Chilton manual and the have the procedures on how to check if your ignitor or coil is working properly.

But honestly if you can get a hold of a second distributor just swap it in.

Happened to me in a Civic and 2 Accords. it was the ignitor 3/3 times.

[mr2mike]

Another one for ignitor.
Consider yourself lucky to stall out into the driveway.
Not at 120km/h on the highway like I did, then shifting into Neutral trying to get it started while coasting to a stop.

[Kloubek]

If that doesn't work - did these models have the problematic master relay? I know I ran into such an issue with an 98 Accord coupe. It was a simple fix, but I would have had no idea where to look unless I found answers on the internet.

[G-ZUS]

Originally posted by Kloubek
If that doesn't work - did these models have the problematic master relay? I know I ran into such an issue with an 98 Accord coupe. It was a simple fix, but I would have had no idea where to look unless I found answers on the internet.

Yes they did, but that usually happens on a hot summer day. usually wouldn't start after a short trip but if you left it for a couple of minutes it would eventually start

[dcast10101]

Thanks to everyone for the advice! Looks like I'm off to the wreck to pull an ignitor / full dizzy.

bruced - Fellow at the auto parts place suggested ignition switch as well. That's #2 on the hitlist.

firebane & G-ZUS - Thanks guys!

mr2mike - I couldn't have asked for better timing. Pushed it the rest of the way up the hill with my Jeep (which is currently also out of serve in need of a clutch slave)

Any suggestions on which wrecker has more of these older imports?

[G-ZUS]

Originally posted by dcast10101
Thanks to everyone for the advice! Looks like I'm off to the wreck to pull an ignitor / full dizzy.

bruced - Fellow at the auto parts place suggested ignition switch as well. That's #2 on the hitlist.

firebane & G-ZUS - Thanks guys!

mr2mike - I couldn't have asked for better timing. Pushed it the rest of the way up the hill with my Jeep (which is currently also out of serve in need of a clutch slave)

Any suggestions on which wrecker has more of these older imports?

You probably wont have much luck at PnP, lots of people pull them and resell them. try Stampede, Bucks or Kijiji

[dcast10101]

So we have gone way farther down the rabbit hole than I had intended but hey, I have the day off and want to give it a final shot before I send her to the wrecker.

Progress:

- Distributor / ignitor / coil are all fine.

- Cranking with valve cover + timing belt cover + drivers wheel off shows that the timing belt is not turning even though the pistons are moving when cranked.

I'm afraid there is something major broken in the bottom end. Thoughts?

[revelations]

If the pistons are moving then the bottom end is fine. The fact that the timing belt isnt turning means that the crankshaft pulley or the belt itself is done.

[v2kai]

Originally posted by revelations
If the pistons are moving then the bottom end is fine. The fact that the timing belt isnt turning means that the crankshaft pulley or the belt itself is done.

might also be possible that the key somehow wiggled out and the crank pully is just spinning on the crankshaft output

[revelations]

True

[THE GOVERNATOR]

1.5L was that sohc?

[sr20s14zenki]

I call ripped timing belt, at the bottom sprocket.

[forced_eg]

What sr20 said... Or even snapped somewhere down there..

[JBreaks]

Man if your doing the timing belt you should pull the head at the same time and inspect your valves......

[sr20s14zenki]

Sometimes you are lucky, i cant remember if they are interference or not.

I had a timing belt snap on a b18b, took a chance and did the belt, ran great.